Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just trying to confirm if the fuel pump in my car is indeed a tomei one as advertised. There is no part number or anything on the casing and seems to slot into the stock cradle just fine. I've tried googling and all the pictures are tiny and hard to distinguish, but from what ive read the stock pumps have the part numbers on the main body of the unit however this one only has the numbers shown in the pic below which isnt on the main casing. So does anyone recognise it and/or confirm it's a tomei item?

d63bc38e.jpg

01e285e7.jpg

b0ca64df.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378193-name-this-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

I have a Tomei pump here, direct replacement for r32 GTR, it looks exactly like the one you are showing.

the stock pump has "made in japan" and "JECS" stamped on the body. Not sure why some Tomei one look different, but the one i have was purchased from japan while over there and is identical to what you have.

Also my car was running out of fuel, 100% injector duty cycle 700cc, replaced stock pump with the tomei and it richened up the top end, so seems all sweet.

Thanks for the replys guys. At a glance yes it looks stock, but the fact there is no stamps or anything leads me to beleive otherwise. Some more searching led me to think it may be a tomei pump for a gt-t as per... http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-nissan-skyline-r32-gts-t it looks awefully similar.

Car is an 89 r32 gtr. Good to hear about that blue_vl_t, its pretty much the problem i'm having atm where the towards the end of the revs its starting to lean out, also using 750cc injectors with stock fuel pressure reg... might change the fuel filter for a new one, otherwise ill be farkeds why its leaning out (rb26, -7's, supporting mods ect, looking around the 320kw mark).

Going by the nengun site for R32 tomei fuel pumps...

GTS-T = Out Put 540PS 248 L/h Standard 136 L\h

GTR = 590PS 276 L/h Standard 195 L\h

So gtst pump is rated to a little less but should still be plenty.

if it's running out of flow at 320kw it's a stock pump. genuine tomei/nismo/sard pump will easily flow 400kw. it's easy enough to test on a dyno with just a fuel pressure gauge.

bit of an update on this situation, so the first pump pictured at the top of this thread is what i'm running, 32gtr, wound the wick up today 1.5 bar and i can easily run the afr into the 9.0 reigion if i nneded to. i supplied the pump with a direct feed from the battery and a relay.

so it seems to be flowing quite a lot.

Mods.

JUN 264 9.7mm

2860-5's

700cc injectors

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...