Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Listen to the ladies above.

Get 25GT, drive it around for 4 years. When you're off P's, buy GTR.

Man, P platers back in these days were awesome, driving around in turbos, these days are long gone.

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

get the bmw, and keep it till your off your p´s, you will get pulled over and you will get fined on your p´s unless you get some ultra rare exemption to drive an r34 gtr, drive around with no p´s and get double fines and 3 points each time, you would have lost your lisence within a couple of months and wont be able to drive the car anyway, take the 1 point option and you will possibly lose it for 6 months, dont forget about insurance premiums rising if youve lost your licence... not only that but when i was under 25, my insurance premium on my skyline was $4000 on a $25000 car, (never lost my licence or had an accident but they didnt care ) id love to see what it would been for an r34 gtr... but if youve got your parents funding the majority of your product, go for it, they dont care, so why should you.

this is my plan.

2 years with a bmw 330ci, simple mods: lower, exhaust, rims/tyres, etc.

after those 2 years, sell the bmw, and get a R34 GTR V Spec.

sorry but i'm not waiting 4 years to get a twin turbo. LOL. just drive without my P's.

Cannot wait until something goes wrong with the 330 and you can't afford to repair it because you bought a car outside your means. Ferrari capital, Ferrari ongoing. If it took you years of hard work to save that up then why would you buy a car that someone on your wage can't afford to upkeep. Also cannot wait until you hit an expensive car and insurance tell you to get f**ked. Then you'll be waiting 4 years for an N/A.

^thats right^

a freinds clutch plate dropped out of his semi automatic 2000 alfa romeo, 3500 grand later, he sold the car, another funny story, a mate wanted to spend the 90000 profit he made on a house to buy a porsche, the thing was raping him with even the smallest little thing costing a fortune, it wasnt till his rear badge got stolen, and he rang porsche, $600 for the badge was the last straw... sold

unless you can really afford it, stay away from anything european, but iv given up after reading everything and and its the same old story, when your that age, nothing matters, not even your parents telling you to stay in school in some cases, i think its time to learn the hard way buddy, but it all comes down to the funds, if your family has money, there will be nothing hard about it, and most importantly, nothing learnt.

but nobody else knows but you, you literally busted your ass to save 30.000 to get your car, or you worked hard on the weekends and for being such a good hard worker your getting a little help. but it seems that from what im reading, the expenses of a european car dont bother you because youll just get a little more help. but if i am wrong and you will be funding everything with a medium income, dont spend anywhere near your maximum budget, youl crucify yourself.

so ill give you my opinion one last time, i dont beleive it is a good idea to buy a 30000 bmw, but if your family can afford it. get whatever you want...

I'm interested in knowing if the death toll has dropped since implementing this law.

Pretty sure it hasn't dropped to a level the government want us to know.

But they had 'fudged' the statistics regarding crime, wouldn't surprise me if they have 'tweaking' the amount of road toll.

ph34r.gif

Summarize this ----

You come from a rich family? Buy a BMW. Yeh it will be your baby, but we all know that as soon as servicing or repairs pop up you'll get mum or dad to help out. BMW and merc are the two most expensive euro cars, followed by Audi and then Vw being somewhat reasonable.

You come from a well off family and have to take care of you're own servicing? Buy a jap car. Honda is very good I've been told. Lots of parts meaning the supply and demand is good which equals lower costs.

Let us know what you buy. Pics or it didn't happen.

Don't buy a turbod car unless you can get an exemption.

Better to have a license and a dream to drive a GTR than to have no license and a GTR you can't drive.

Out!

Summarize this ----

You come from a rich family? Buy a BMW. Yeh it will be your baby, but we all know that as soon as servicing or repairs pop up you'll get mum or dad to help out. BMW and merc are the two most expensive euro cars, followed by Audi and then Vw being somewhat reasonable.

You come from a well off family and have to take care of you're own servicing? Buy a jap car. Honda is very good I've been told. Lots of parts meaning the supply and demand is good which equals lower costs.

Let us know what you buy. Pics or it didn't happen.

Don't buy a turbod car unless you can get an exemption.

Better to have a license and a dream to drive a GTR than to have no license and a GTR you can't drive.

Out!

I live in a wealthy family, but I'm not your tyPical rick kid that brags, I never mention any of the cars my family owns, wealth, etc.

I'll most likely be going for the BMW, Parents actually want me to get the 330Ci rather then the cheaP 25GT.

Birthday in a month, so gonna start visiting a few BMW Private sellers this week :)

I live in a wealthy family, but I'm not your tyPical rick kid that brags, I never mention any of the cars my family owns, wealth, etc.

Bullshit, the whole reason you came on here in the first place wasn't for advice, it was to brag that you had 30k to spend on a car...evidenced by you ignoring any advice people have given you.

Bullshit, the whole reason you came on here in the first place wasn't for advice, it was to brag that you had 30k to spend on a car...evidenced by you ignoring any advice people have given you.

Man, what are you on about?

I didn't mention being able to spend 30k till mid way through the thread.

I initially wanted an 8 to 10k 25GT, but after realising how slow it is I've avoided going for it.

I've actually taken the advice from people on here and spoken to my parents about it and they'd actually prefer me getting a BMW rather then a cheap box.

And if anything I f**king envy you guys having skylines, wish I could have one now.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...