Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

P plater, skyline, yep, expecting a whole heap of flaming but whatever.

Coming back home the other night from Eastern Creek my brother (of 28) notices that he doesn't like the way my clutch seems to be acting, he asks if he can take the car for a spin and find the issue.

Well, not really expecting it my brother off of first gear (first time driving my car) is hitting 8krpm, fine, whatever, it is late at night but if you must... He is really thrashing the car and I have no f**king idea what is happening (he has more experience so obviously he knows what he is doing)

But sitting at 60k's in 2nd with his foot down he starts pumping the clutch really quickly, now to my knowledge, this is not very advisable, heat and whatnot, let alone some damage... He thrashes the absolute shit out of it for about another 5 minutes before we arrive home where he tells me there is minor slippage and my clutch is actually sitting too high.

The next morning I've gone and started my car, like usual, taken off down the street, 1st gear, no problem, 2nd gear, car is revving and not getting much power (clutch is slipping right?)

Now to add on all of this, my clutch was very very very barely slipping prior to this and I'm not that thrashy with the clutch at all (Dumped it 5 times in 6 months). Did my brother screw my clutch?

Also, I've been hearing Exedy HD clutches would be good quality? Any advice on the situation and suggestions please.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378248-major-clutch-slippage/
Share on other sites

if the revs go up but you dont go anywhere or the revs almost seem like the car is in neutral then yes, clutch is slipping.

there is a rating somewhere of different power levels that particular clutches can take, I am pretty sure a Heavy duty will be more then ample for an n/a

yeah sounds like your brother thrashing the car was the straw that broke the camels back. the clutch was probably already shagged.

Exactly what I was thinking, my car was very drivable before, now it's just... undrivable :(

No money for a fair few weeks so I guess I play the waiting game now -_-

Thanks guys.

Dont waste your money on a heavy duty clutch, the friction disc is no different between a regular clutch and heavy duty one its just the pressure plate. Having a heavy pressure plate in a NA can do more harm than good as it can put a large load of stress on the bearings in the gearbox and you will get a rumble from the gearbox everytime you take off. Save yourself 30% of the price by getting a normal one that will not be any different to you.

Dont waste your money on a heavy duty clutch, the friction disc is no different between a regular clutch and heavy duty one its just the pressure plate. Having a heavy pressure plate in a NA can do more harm than good as it can put a large load of stress on the bearings in the gearbox and you will get a rumble from the gearbox everytime you take off. Save yourself 30% of the price by getting a normal one that will not be any different to you.

Wish I read that a couple months ago -.-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...