Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One of my GTS-T's came with an old worn set of keys so I took the key to a local locksmith who put the key in a machine to measure it and create the code number for it. They then cut a key to the code and gave it to me to check in the car locks.

When I confirmed that it worked perfectly they gave me a printout of the code so that I can have keys cut from the code instead of an existing key in the future - this way you get a perfect key every time.

The only problem is finding a local locksmith that has the equipment to cut a key from the code and most of the small key cutting services can only copy a key from one that you provide.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378299-r32-key-code/#findComment-6033529
Share on other sites

The code is also on the drivers door lock. Know this because my key snap in the lock 2 weeks ago so I bought the lock to the locksmith and he cut a new key from the code. Cost me $25, but he charged me another $15 to take the lock apart to get the snapped key out and clean the lock. He also told me the spray CRC in all my locks because it looked like my car had been underwater. Haha. The locks are like new now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378299-r32-key-code/#findComment-6034156
Share on other sites

The code is also on the drivers door lock. Know this because my key snap in the lock 2 weeks ago so I bought the lock to the locksmith and he cut a new key from the code. Cost me $25, but he charged me another $15 to take the lock apart to get the snapped key out and clean the lock. He also told me the spray CRC in all my locks because it looked like my car had been underwater. Haha. The locks are like new now.

yeah i knew there was a lock somewhere in the car that said it, but couldn't remember. the people i bought my old business off also had a locksmith so i went there to get a key cut when i had my 33 and the keys i had were a bit worn and they said i could just get the code off one of the locks and then they could cut me a new key.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378299-r32-key-code/#findComment-6034524
Share on other sites

I could open my car by putting the other half of the broken key in the door lock so all I had to do was remove the door trim, remove 1 screw holding the lock and the metal rod that unclips. This was on my R33, but should be the same on the R32. I hope your car is unlocked.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378299-r32-key-code/#findComment-6036942
Share on other sites

sounds like your local nissan dealer is clueless. . . .if you give him the chassis number then he can use that to give you the key code, very useful when you dont have the original key like i did when i bought a 31 without any keys whatsover

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378299-r32-key-code/#findComment-6037068
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...