Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would people recommend getting a N/A R33/R34?

Some people ive spoken to say they are pretty decent but some people are saying that they are slow as hell..

Im thinking of selling my Suby and Upgrading and id assume this would be the best place to ask this question.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers.

-Jordan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378358-non-turbo-r33r34/
Share on other sites

They're okay for the handling and "style" but if it's speed that you're after, then they're not fast at all. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for speed, which is why I'm going to buy an R32 GTR or R34 GTT one of these days as a project car so I can work it up and use it for track days until I can apply for my unrestricted license then get it road registered. My advice to you is, if you want speed then save up for a turbocharged Skyline. If you want style and good handling and generally a cool car as a P Plater then by all means... buy one but keep in mind, they aren't fast at all. The NEO RB25DE unit will only produce 200HP/147kW which equates to roughly 110rwkW-120rwkW.

PS. If you get one, don't drive like a dick mmkay? Makes me and many other P Platers look like wankers.

EDIT: I forgot to mention the R33 will use an RB25DE, not a NEO RB25DE...

Edited by JDM34

one but keep in mind, they aren't fast at all. The NEO RB25DE unit will only produce 200HP/147kW which equates to roughly 110rwkW-120rwkW.

PS. If you get one, don't drive like a dick mmkay? Makes me and many other P Platers look like wankers.

EDIT: I forgot to mention the R33 will use an RB25DE, not a NEO RB25DE...

I have no intention of driving like a dick. I currently have a Gen 3 liberty and I'm looking to sell up and get something with a bit more power and style.

what's the difference between the rb25 and the Neo?

examples?

looking under 14kish.

Get a honda civic, keep it stock, sell it when you're off your Ps, grab a GTR.

I love my 33, but I regret buying it on the basis that the style I want isn't there, it's slow, expensive and I will never get my money back for it.

Edited by SKITTLES

would you sell a liberty for a civic?

I'm a fairly big buy (6'2") and a civic is pretty small.

Kinda skipped a lot, I'm just an advocate for recommending against N/A skylines.

What sort of style are you going for? Stance? Low? d-spec? Sex? Daily?

What sort of driving is this car going to be used for?

Dont waste your money! Talking from experience in my earlier P plate days its just not worth it. You get all the grief from the 5-0 minus any of the benefits as the car is an absolute slug and gutless.

Imo get an XR6. 4 Doors, bucket loads of torque (more torque than a turbocharged skyline FYI) and very under the radar plus their a good looking car as a daily. Will blow the doors off any NA skyline while comfortably fitting in people in the back seat without having to play tetris.

Kinda skipped a lot, I'm just an advocate for recommending against N/A skylines.

What sort of style are you going for? Stance? Low? d-spec? Sex? Daily?

What sort of driving is this car going to be used for?

Im still at school. When i got my liberty i was the only once to get one. Since then 5 other people have. I want to have a car with a bit more style that is rarer than others.

Im still at school. When i got my liberty i was the only once to get one. Since then 5 other people have. I want to have a car with a bit more style that is rarer than others.

Who doesn't want to be unique, this is why we like our jap cars... it's like playing with lego.

+1 for psi-fed's recommendation, there are some nice xr6's if you don't mind being everyone else, or you don't mind not having a sporty feeling car. But if you're interested in a sporty car, look into a honda s2k for rarity.. if you can get the price dropped a bit lol :P

Get a cheap S13, d-spec it and learn to drift, it'll make you cool. or a nice 180sx. or an ae86.

my wife has a ba xr6 turbo , i cant recommend you get one even if it's just a xr6, its a pos...sure it goes hard stock, looks good for a large sedan,heaps of interior room... but be prepared for driveline clunks, ive had on going issues with bad idle, brake shudder and warping discs, f**ked bushes. Shit build quality/parts used is the problem... steer away from the Ford! even later models like bf etc have these type of issues ocurring...

Nothing wrong with a na r34 Manual, while on your p's.... obviously wont be as quick as the turbo variants but who cares... suspension work and intake and exhaust should keep you happy for few yrs..

my wife has a ba xr6 turbo , i cant recommend you get one even if it's just a xr6, its a pos...sure it goes hard stock, looks good for a large sedan,heaps of interior room... but be prepared for driveline clunks, ive had on going issues with bad idle, brake shudder and warping discs, f**ked bushes. Shit build quality/parts used is the problem... steer away from the Ford! even later models like bf etc have these type of issues ocurring...

Nothing wrong with a na r34 Manual, while on your p's.... obviously wont be as quick as the turbo variants but who cares... suspension work and intake and exhaust should keep you happy for few yrs..

Each to their own.

Ive owned both an NA manual r34 coupe in my early P's (coil overs, exhaust, swaybar, wheels) and i currently have a BA XR6 (stock automatic) as a daily while the GTR sleeps in the garage for the weekend.

Apart from the R34 having better fuel economy and sounding better it wasnt superior in any other way. The XR cops an absolute flogging, chunders smoke out of the rears regularely, tows a small size trailer and has never skipped a beat. Not that the R34 didnt do these things (aside the towing which no way in the world it would manage), but when something went wrong it took 4x the amount of the ford for it to fix.

I cant speak highly enough of the XR6 and its appeal as a daily or P plate car. NOTE the bolded writing.

Each to their own.

Ive owned both an NA manual r34 coupe in my early P's (coil overs, exhaust, swaybar, wheels) and i currently have a BA XR6 (stock automatic) as a daily while the GTR sleeps in the garage for the weekend.

Apart from the R34 having better fuel economy and sounding better it wasnt superior in any other way. The XR cops an absolute flogging, chunders smoke out of the rears regularely, tows a small size trailer and has never skipped a beat. Not that the R34 didnt do these things (aside the towing which no way in the world it would manage), but when something went wrong it took 4x the amount of the ford for it to fix.

I cant speak highly enough of the XR6 and its appeal as a daily or P plate car. NOTE the bolded writing.

yeh thats my experience.... i have had some of the issues i mentioned... i still love driving it thou so figure that out! ....Would i buy another Ford probably not!

Edited by rgr34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...