Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll break it down (R34 non turbo)

Fast = no (on par with current 4 cylinder camry)

Handling = good

Braking = good

Interior space = average, roughly the size of a late 90s subabru liberty, but the skyline's (sedans) boot is huge.

Value for money = bad, the car is from the late 90s and prices are still high.

Style = each to their own - but I personally still find them very attractive in this day and age.

Fuel consumption = Average 11 to 12L/100km mixed

Insurance = Bad, expensive for such an old car with not that much performance

Aftermarket Parts = Good, lots of parts available

Wear/tear parts and Servicing = Average, nothing special it's a "normal car", parts can be bought from Nissan dealerships for a reasonable price, sometimes cheaper than elsewhere.

D*ckhead attention = bad, every man and his dog wants to race you..... you will lose

Cop attention = Debatable, keep it reasonably stock looking, non-riced and no cannon exhaust, it's OK.

Buy an NA Supra with an LSD, don't spend a cent on it, enjoy it for what it is and sell it once you're off your P's.

People will go on about how you should just save all your $$ till your off your Ps, but if you need a car when you're on your Ps may as well get something decent, thats done the worst of its depreciating already and is reliable.

The key is to NOT modify your NA car, and just enjoy it as a nice A to B daily.

if you want a fun car for on your P's that wont depreciate like shit, old corollas are where its at.

i had an ae71 with a 4age, went like stink and handled great. sold it for a couple hundred less than what i paid for it and by then it had no reverse

performance wise they would both beat the liberty (i've owned both, and my sister in law had a 3rd gen) as well as a natro skyline. i would actually keep the liberty over a natro skyline. might not have as much power on a dyno, but in real world performance it would be as fast, if not faster.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...