Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Spent a day at my mates house trying to figure out why my car missfired at low rpm and went lean all the time. Swapped out a heap of parts including the CAS, ended up putting all my parts back on apart from the CAS.

Drive home no problems.(Apart from the miss and random lean out)

Next day i figure out my cam cover venting to atmosphere with the pcv still connected to the plenum is basically a big air leak.

Start the car and missfire is gone no more leaning at idle I go for a quick drive and all smooth apart from burbling on decel, i assume this is caused by incorrect injector lag times(Lag time may have been incorrectly set to high as the air leak meant more fuel was needed on vacume). Come to a round about near my house and the car dies. Will not start just keeps crancking over.

Tow the car home. This weekend i put my CAS back on and jump start the car and it runs(Took abit of cranking)

Battery was pretty much flat from all the cranking so last night i put the battery on charge. This morning I try and start the car and nothing just endless cranking(I thought the CAS i put on it was faulty)

Any ideas? I have already reset the tune to standard and resized the injectors and MAF to get a new starting point. This did not help at all.

CAS timing has not been set properly since putting mine back on and is currently sitting all the way anti clock wise.

I have played with cold cranking fuel and ignition and this has not helped.

I do plan on setting the timing correctly but i need the F*cking car to start first.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/378380-never-ending-r33-gtst-problem/
Share on other sites

It won't start with the cas in the wrong spot

Put it in the center and I bet it starts. It won't hurt it on idle if it's too advanced or retarded in the middle.

You car definitely won't start if it's super retarded

There was already a mark on it so originally we lined it up to that and it started(This was the other night)

As it was hard to start that time i have been moving the CAS slightly starting from all the way anticlockwise.

The issue this morning happened before the case was moved as i though it might have been an issue.

Just noticed the lack of fuel pump priming so i might disconnect the fuel feed and see if fuel is flowing

I recently had the fuel pump hard wired with a relay by an auto electrician

Check your fuel pressure, see if its up to scratch. Also you can pull out the plugs after the cranking and see if they're wet from fuel. Remember, if the fuel hits the plug for too long and is not ignited, chances are you've fouled most, if not all the plugs and the car will NEVER start.

I spent a fair while trying to diagnose my car once a while back, crank crank crank nothing. Changed plugs, problem was gone.

I have an R33 gtst..its a never ending problem :D

But seriously mine hs done this a few times and its always been fouled plugs. Always keep a spare set in your toolbox :thumbsup:

.also just recently the battery..I would charge it all night and it still didnt want to fire..however if I plugged in the battery charger on its engine start function it would start..battery was just rooted..it would crank but wouldnt fire the coils..then plugs would foul form too much cranking...New battery with 430cca she now cranks like a baws....problem solved..

That's also another problem with you guys. If it doesn't start after 3 or 4 cranks, you'll keep cranking. It's not goin to magically fix itself and start.

It's a EFI motor, it's designed to start easy.

Plus, these cheap shit batteries you or the jap \ compliance puts in them are just that - shit.

Get a decent battery and try to crank it 3 or 4 times a couple of times. Not all night.

If it doesn't start after a couple of short goes, stop, and start checking shit.

yes u are right..

My only defense is that yeah, I only crank it a few hits at a time and sometimes it would magically fix itself

i had a feeling it was the battery and when i got it going I went straight to local battery shop to have it checked..first thing he said is thats a piece of junk battery and its dead...was a 320cca power crank..was in it when I bought it..

I doubt in this case its my battery. It cranking over and over and over. The battery went flat after the car originally cut out and had o get towed home.

It died during decel and sounded like it was getting too much fuel as it was popping alot.

nope it would crank ok, although not as good as it does with the new battery..

lights would be alright everything ..it just wouldnt fire...guy at the battery shop said it just didnt have enough Cold Cranking Amps.

eventually when it had warmed up a little it would fire and once it did it would run, but i know at least once the plugs fouled up..

It starts first crank now though it sometimes stalls out straight away, so its still not starting 100% and my starter squeals like a pig when it does

I feel there is another issue, I'm not sure what yet might just be the plugs still..

I doubt in this case its my battery. It cranking over and over and over. The battery went flat after the car originally cut out and had o get towed home.

It died during decel and sounded like it was getting too much fuel as it was popping alot.

yeah sorry for the slight thread highjack..yours sounds like a diferent problem..

that doesnt make sense "guy at the battery shop said it didnt have enough cold cranking amps"

if there arent enough amps its dead obvious, the lights go dim, you can hear the starter motor struggle and it basically tries to start as if something is strangling it's neck

Tow the car home. This weekend i put my CAS back on and jump start the car and it runs(Took abit of cranking)

Battery was pretty much flat from all the cranking so last night i put the battery on charge. This morning I try and start the car and nothing just endless cranking(I thought the CAS i put on it was faulty)

that sounds more like the immoboliser is stuck on or something obvious like that

there is either enough amperage in the battery, or there isn't

its dead obvious when there isnt, lights go dim when you try to crank, starter motor struggles to turn over (you can hear it struggling)

the basics when starting

air, fuel, spark

inputs, water temp sensor, airflow meter

outputs, crank angle sensor, injectors, coilpacks

it should start without water temp sensor and airflow meter

it wont start without CAS, injectors, coilpacks, air, fuel or spark, or power

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
    • They are in fact just nozzles. They are there only to produce a spray pattern and limit flow. The injector itself is what I use to control flow to the 7x nozzles. My old system had no injector and only PWM the pump. This lead to a lot of inconsistencies, and poor atomization at low pressure when the pump was ramping up. 
×
×
  • Create New...