Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just the head alone:

drill out oil returns

open up rear oil returns

hot tank

hardness test

deck, skim

replace valve guides

recut valve seats

CC combustion chambers

quick clean up of steps in the ports

polish combustion chambers

  • 2 months later...

Hello everyone i'm finally back from my long holiday closedeyes.gif

So here is a bit of an update on my build thread.

Over the last couple of months I have bought.

Tomei Type B valve springs and retainers

Garrett 2860-5's turbine housing both ceramic coated

Nitto H-Beam Rods

Turbo Braided Oil and Water Lines

Radiator Hoses.

1.1mm oil restrictor

Tomei Extreme Dumps

HKS Front Pipes

All my engine covers and exhaust manifolds back from Craved Coatings (Thanks Chris Awesome work!!!!! thumbsup.gif)

Twin turbo pipe also has splitter in it too.

As for the block and head it is still currently getting machined and serviced

I still have a few more things that need to be purchased still and I'm hoping my car is back on the road around march??

The covers are not purple just appear in the photos like that lol.

Here are some photos of the gear.

post-39868-0-29898800-1327191462_thumb.jpgpost-39868-0-23197000-1327191514_thumb.jpg

post-39868-0-23330400-1327191574_thumb.jpgpost-39868-0-29518700-1327191632_thumb.jpg

post-39868-0-62574900-1327191661_thumb.jpgpost-39868-0-54568400-1327191680_thumb.jpgpost-39868-0-87842700-1327191697_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Hey Nick :)

Reusing his HKS cams, 264deg 8.8mm lift. Told him a higher lift would help torque but that would be more $$$ again...

They do sound like the tomei 260deg poncams I had in my 32GTR at idle though :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Just picked up the block and crank from the machinist.

Building will start soon!!

First pic is the block on the honing machine, the torque plate is still attatched to the top of the block.

post-12712-0-13185000-1330914823_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-39145900-1330914834_thumb.jpg

The ports got a bit of a clean up, removing steps in the radius etc, and that was about it. I didn't remove the 'humps' in the exhaust ports, just my choice :D .

post-12712-0-48726300-1331079541_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-30974300-1331079544_thumb.jpg

Just to prove I ain't ripping off web pics, my ugly mug lol. Putting grubscrews into crank, loctited in to be sure.

post-12712-0-14832400-1331079546_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-38020400-1331079548_thumb.jpg

Crank getting fitted and measured up for bearing clearances 0.0015"-0.002" from memory, thrust 0.011". Girdle torqued up, and you can just see the 3 long studs that have been shortened to clear sump and driveshaft tube. 55FT-LB.

post-12712-0-60155000-1331079550_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-00810800-1331079553_thumb.jpg

Pistons and rods getting some attention. Piston rings clocked as per service manual.

post-12712-0-46781400-1331079555_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-06087900-1331079558_thumb.jpg

Fitting the piston and rod into the bore. Rod bolts, I tightened them using a bolt stretch gauge on the 3rd cycle. 0.0055" stretch.

post-12712-0-58449600-1331079560_thumb.jpg

Today piston to deck height will be measured and if all good it'll all be put together permanently.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...