Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The ports got a bit of a clean up, removing steps in the radius etc, and that was about it. I didn't remove the 'humps' in the exhaust ports, just my choice :D .

post-12712-0-48726300-1331079541_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-30974300-1331079544_thumb.jpg

Just to prove I ain't ripping off web pics, my ugly mug lol. Putting grubscrews into crank, loctited in to be sure.

post-12712-0-14832400-1331079546_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-38020400-1331079548_thumb.jpg

Crank getting fitted and measured up for bearing clearances 0.0015"-0.002" from memory, thrust 0.011". Girdle torqued up, and you can just see the 3 long studs that have been shortened to clear sump and driveshaft tube. 55FT-LB.

post-12712-0-60155000-1331079550_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-00810800-1331079553_thumb.jpg

Pistons and rods getting some attention. Piston rings clocked as per service manual.

post-12712-0-46781400-1331079555_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-06087900-1331079558_thumb.jpg

Fitting the piston and rod into the bore. Rod bolts, I tightened them using a bolt stretch gauge on the 3rd cycle. 0.0055" stretch.

post-12712-0-58449600-1331079560_thumb.jpg

Today piston to deck height will be measured and if all good it'll all be put together permanently.

Hey Sean,

Looking good , let me know what the deack height is and what head gasket you using ( i have a nismo 0.9mm gasket if interested). Why i ask is john has Set my motor to have 33thou squish, try and aim for that if you can.

Hi Bob,

Block had about 0.006" taken off the deck, I was told.

Deck height of pistons' quench measured up 0.016-0.017'' proud of the deck, 0.003-0.004" on the other side squish.

He is using a cosworth 1.1mm (0.0455") head gasket.

So squish will be 0.0285". So over 0.5mm, it should be enough clearance when engine is running in the higher RPM ranges.

I aim to have the cylinder head on and torqued up tomorrow.

Hi Bob,

Block had about 0.006" taken off the deck, I was told.

Deck height of pistons' quench measured up 0.016-0.017'' proud of the deck, 0.003-0.004" on the other side squish.

He is using a cosworth 1.1mm (0.0455") head gasket.

So squish will be 0.0285". So over 0.5mm, it should be enough clearance when engine is running in the higher RPM ranges.

I aim to have the cylinder head on and torqued up tomorrow.

Hey Sean,

That is a tight squish i think its way to tight lower limit is 33 thou any lower then this may be a problem. I would do a dummy build to check this measurement to make sure.

And can you confirm the piston flat surface ( Piston squish area ) extends out of the block at 0.016 - 0.017" ?

Just a note on tight squish, the car will have problems idling and if it does idle it will be rough

These were measurements I took yesterday with the pistons at TDC, bottom end dummy assembled.

0.0045" under your 33 thou. He'll love the idle more then haha, barp barrrp barp....along with the cams.

I'll dummy fit head and double check gap with clay.

So I fitted head and measured the clay after lunch. Squish measured up at 0.038" with the head torqued down.

After dummy fitting the cylinder head, it was removed, head gasket was hylomared, then head was fitted and torqued in steps to 110 FTLBs.

Then cam caps were fitted and torqued to 10FTLBs. Timing accessories were then fitted and a dial gauge used to check piston Top Dead Center etc.

Cam gears set to 0, 0 degrees, as HKS cams are being used, and they can be fiddled with on the dyno at a later stage.

post-12712-0-99574400-1331219660_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-54030900-1331219663_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-57392000-1331219665_thumb.jpg

Block painted in heatproof matt black to see leaks easily ;)

post-12712-0-19418800-1331219668_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-51088400-1331219670_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-00993600-1331219673_thumb.jpg

Timing done! Nice colour.

post-12712-0-58844600-1331219675_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-71269600-1331219677_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-99183400-1331219679_thumb.jpg

Harmonic balancer still needs to be torqued up. Might make up a tool to hold the balancer at the front as I'm torquing up the crank bolt, instead of twisting the crank if I held it at the back of the crank....

bore: 86.5mm

stroke: 73.7mm

head gasket thickness: 1.1mm

deck height: around -0.013in (one side of piston was .003", the other side was .016")

piston dome: -16.2cc

combustion chamber: 64.5cc

Hey Paul,

I calculated static CR at around 9.2:1, keeping in mind this engine is using non standard cams, so upping the comp a bit will help with off boost drivability and regain a little efficiency back at low to mid RPM due to the longer duration cams (264deg 8.8mm lift).

great now i'm going to have to put the 4.11 back just to keep up again........

but seriously looks good, keen to hear and see it go......hard! will have to go cruising when i get back buddy.

Bloody Oath... but mind you you have the torque :closedeyes:

Feels like ages without my car lol

Blah blah.......back on topic!! put the engine in today and fitted up the gearbox. Sucks doing it all by yourself..

This was after spending the morning sorting out all the minor crap before the engine could go in...

Pics will be up tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
    • I started removing the tank a while back with the intent to give it a proper clean. Got to a bolt that I couldn't undo completely due to a diff being in the way, so just said f**k it and siphoned the gluggy old fuel out and called it a day. Looking it the tank it looks less corroded than the one in the pics for that billet hanger from Frenchy's anyway. Isn't it the fuel filters job to worry about this stuff? I scraped off most the crusty shit of the hanger but will give it another go before reinstall coz maybe the fuel and return pipes are also full of gunk  
    • Pretty sure it is a common fault. I believe this is the only part you need, but don't quote me as I don't have a V36.  I also believe it is a bit of a pain to change and the device needs to be encoded to the car once it is replaced, so may need someone with the right tools. Buy Genuine Nissan 48700JF00D (48700-JF00D) Lock Set-Steering. Prices, fast shipping, photos, weight - Amayama
    • Pads for R32 GTS-t, R32 GT-R non V-Spec (Sumitomo), R33 GTS-t and R34 GT-t are all interchangeable. R34 GT uses a 2x piston caliper, hence it didn't fit.
    • Checked with amayama and nope, the full S2 manual set is not available anymore. Unsurprising, but still disappointing as the ? on availability gave a glimmer of hope.
×
×
  • Create New...