Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Users,

After having owned a R33 GTS-T for a number of years, i had to get rid of it as i was purchasing a house.... Biggest mistake of my life. (selling the car, not buying a house)

A number of years later, (last week even) i came across this beautiful looking white thing on the side of the road that i have never seen before..

A 1984 MR30 Nissan Skyline with a L24E motor. Picked it up for $450, and the sign said needs radiator replacement. The Radiator tank, overflow bottle and engine was filled with this yellowy looking liquid, so i changed it. Got a new water pump and a new thermostat. Just waiting to put it in when i have some time off..

Now my main question really is.....

1. Where can i buy parts from. Pannels and trimming, etc... All of the L24e components are easily available from Repco/supercheap. (chasing some RS taillights also)

2. What motor/s are a direct fit to the MR30 sedan. Being it is an automatic also..... Realistically i would like to fit an RB20 or SR20, or the likes to it. Maybe even an RB26DETT. (dreaming) and where is the best place to look)

Have read alot of the forums in regards to the MR's, but alot of them are just troubleshooting promblems of which i dont have.

SO if anyone can help me out it would be much appreciated.

Will attach a picture when i get the chance.

Thanks guys!

Michael.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/
Share on other sites

The only motors that slot straight in is either an L20ET (JDM) or your L24E, anything else requires some modification.

RB conversions are relatively easy and there is info on it here as a couple of guys have already done it.

RS Tail lights are about $150/200 a pair and ebay.com.au or Yahoo Japan through an importer is just about the only way.

Cheers & good luck with your new toy,

D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6054560
Share on other sites

If the auto is the one with overdrive you can get a shift kit done on it (Model Ln71b or something)

Also pretty easy to boost line pressure for quicker gear changes.

Panles are VERY thin on the ground, best source is find another $400 roadside find and keep it for spare parts...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6054678
Share on other sites

good stuff mate

i am just building up my Mr30 with a rb25

buy as may spares as ur can is all i can say i am onto my 3rd parts car just in case

the auto to manual conversion is not hard and cheap i actual have a full set up laying around

here is a cheap set of rear JDM tail light for u

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-DR30-Skyline-Tail-Lights-FJ20-/140616015854?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bd5e1fee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6054874
Share on other sites

what about L26/28 dont they just bolt in Dennis?

I have 2 front sump L28, so yes they will bolt in, not sure what you need to do to the EFI to overcome the larger displacement though,

maybe higher fuel pressure ( adjustable fuel regulator), or 'tweek' the AFM,

or maybe trick the ECU into thinking its running colder than it is ( put a resistor in line with the ECU Temp sensor, this makes it run richer )

or go aftermarket EFI

Nigel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6054914
Share on other sites

what about L26/28 dont they just bolt in Dennis?

L26/28 are all rear sump & our Skylines are all front sump, so mods have to be done to the oil pick up to convert to front sump plus something has to be done for dip stick to check oil. Either drill the block or fabricate something up the side of the engine, but whichever, it is a modification.

D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6056485
Share on other sites

I think the Patrols were MID bowl sump...

The mods are not hard to do with the 280z engine. Ive seen a L20b oil pickup used without much modification. for a dip-stick, a tube can be welded to the side of the sump bowl at a near vertical angle, then insert dip stick. Would take an hour to do if you had all the welding kit.

The L24e ECU (which is rich as fk) will run the L28e engine, some AFM flap spring adjustment would make it a bit better.

Just use the original L24e Loom (incl the cold start and idle stuff)

Oh and there is a difference between the Manual and Auto distributors. (use according to your trans)

If I had spare money when I had the Hatchback, It would of been a definite option. (now all the spare cash goes to car Rego and self funded education!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6057140
Share on other sites

Also forgot to add...

factor in an injector replacement, the old ones are guaranteed to leak or be blocked. If they dont now, they will in time!

Suitable hosetail types are best found on ebay US as they are used in a heap ofother cars there, and lots of smaller companies are licensed to reproduce original manufacturer parts (Lucas do a good one)

They can still be had here in Aus, at twice the price. ($600 a set instead of $300)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6057154
Share on other sites

Hi Again Lads ,

Sorry about the late reply from me. Been out of town for work.

Thanks for all your help.

On the weekend i changed the water pump over and the thermostat. AND, the car still overheats. I will do a complete clean and flush of the radiator this weekend.. and if it is the radiator, i have a spare R33 Alluminimum radiator that i plan to retro-fit into it.

But any suggestions on why it would overheat??

And well... where would i find an engine from to do a conversion.

Im from QLD, and dont really want to have to get a mod plate, so i should get it going, register it and then do the modifications....

I have done a few engine conversions before, but not for an engine that is not designed to be in that car. Eg, i have put in a 4G92 Mivec import into an a 4G91 CC Lancer, and put a new engine into a hilux surf. But nothing that will be this hard.....

How far off will the engine mounts be if i used an SR20 or Rb25/20/30?.. What about an FJ20?.

Am still getting that picture up too guys hah.

Cheers,

Michael.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6066892
Share on other sites

Another question..

What about an aftermarket Airflow Sensor doovie.. so i can change the intake around?? The way its set up with that big useless metal box that attaches to the airbox is a bit silly... the tiny little intake needs re-jigging i think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6066983
Share on other sites

or not - a P90 head with flat-top pistons is the best designed L6 NA combo.

The 240Z head runs smaller valves than the later stuff, and is guaranteed to have been bastardised by experts several times over since the early '70's...

I've run a standard N42/N42 L28 with aftermarket EFI in an MR30 and it turned just shy of 70rwkW (automatic). That engine's last effort in my Z on the dyno was 144rwkW, but 12psi will do that...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379682-mr30-sedan-help/#findComment-6067519
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...