Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesome. I found a HPI combo dump and front pipe for $650 which is a 2.75" out dump to 3" front pipe. Reasonable?

I've just heard the stock system can choke and strain the standard turbo and after time it'll fail(myth?)Would like to avoid a blown turbo atleast until I decide to do the MR turbo..

Apparently yeh.. The stocker can hit 220. Unaware of whether its a ceramic wheel though.

Ill still be keeping it stock. Just a bit worried as its cheaper to do an exhaust, then getting bits of turbo out of your engine if it blows

Awesome. I found a HPI combo dump and front pipe for $650 which is a 2.75" out dump to 3" front pipe. Reasonable?

I've just heard the stock system can choke and strain the standard turbo and after time it'll fail(myth?)Would like to avoid a blown turbo atleast until I decide to do the MR turbo..

Yeah I would avoid the combo ones if they are one piece, my mate got a MAP 1 piece and its a pain in the arse to take off and put on

I'd get two separate pieces myself

do you even need to do the MR turbo

aparently the stocker can hit 220 odd

yeah that's at its max, the MR only has a larger turbine housing and the 9 has larger comp and turbine housing

Apparently yeh.. The stocker can hit 220. Unaware of whether its a ceramic wheel though.

Ill still be keeping it stock. Just a bit worried as its cheaper to do an exhaust, then getting bits of turbo out of your engine if it blows

Not ceramic, and won't really damage anything but you will notice a lot more response mostly from upgrading them, as well as power

8MR turbos are cheap, I picked one up for $350 delivered from the US

Yeh was trying real hard to justify it lol.

Nah the combo was a two piece that deletes the need for that gay spring setup on the dump. Looked fairly cheap for what it is. I think making up a custom dump would be too hard. But I'd rather leave this turbs on for a long while.. If I upgrade the turbo it will only be if I build the motor, and it will be a gt30 lol

Oh yeah. The spring thing isn't so bad though, will never leak with how tight it always stays

If you can find a cheap mr turbo for time being, chuck it on when you do dump front. Will have so much more fun

Speak to that Frank guy on TC, he seems to know Hondas. Always says you can't go wrong with 08 onwards for the blades

went past today, it's gone :closedeyes:

twas actually an '06 with 16000ks

sold for $8k ride away

so i picked up some cf mirrors instead

went past today, it's gone :closedeyes:

twas actually an '06 with 16000ks

sold for $8k ride away

so i picked up some cf mirrors instead

Doesn't sound like a very good price...

Tell me you didn't buy CF mirrors for the bike you're trying to get rid of...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...