Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got told that no Roil does not contain Chlorine in any shape or form, this is from not jetpilot but from another supplier I am freinds with, whom I trust.

He has been using it in his collection of Kombi vans for 3+ years and does not have a problem. He also works for an engineering workshop that prepares formula V motors and they use it in them too, again with no problems. Although he can sell them but chooses not to, he just became a seller so that he could buy it wholesale for himself, whereas jetpilot is selling them outwardly. He is the one who invited me to the Roil night at the Holden Performance Driving Centre last week as seen in this post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=45166 where they did some live demonstrations which I wont try to explain because most of you will just try to tell me how fake they were or some crap like that, no offence, just stating human nature.

But he also uses in in nearly everything that contains oil, his chainsaw, mower, even whipper snipper, he has gone mad with it and uses it for anything that needs lubricating, but I am prolly not going that far.

I have just done another oil change and am putting more in, I am a seller too now just like jetpilot, but wont try to compete with him just because I really could not be bothered trying to sell it, I just like the wholesale prices :(

When I did do the oil change I had several SAU members who had the exactly same reactions, telling me to piss in my motor, as that would probably do just a good job, which really put me off trying to tell them what it does, just let them live happily in their ignorance.

Still will be interesting to see if anyone can PROVE wether or not Roil contains this bad stuff in it, until then we really do not have any solid proof that Roil does contain or does not contain it. All we can do is wait for someone's motor to be pulled down and examined after long term use. That will be the only true fire way as we all know people who do not sell Roil or sell a competing product will say it does and people who sell Roil will say it doesnt.

Anyway sorry jetpilot wont be buying any more bottles from you :) BUT what I will do is every bottle I buy for myself I will donate $5 to SAU, as I did hear about it from here so just to be fair to SAU!

Anyway I also will be watching this thread as well.

Just out of curiousity after how many Km's should this HCl be having an effect on my motor and what are the symptoms, just so I can watch to see if I start to get them I'll get my mech to pull apart the motor and examine it and see if there any truths to this HCl thing, well that is if I can afford to, which I'll probably have to do by the sounds of it, if it does that much damage!

But I think to my mate who has been running it his kombi's for 3 years, and in 3 years time I hope to have something different than an RB in my R33 :D so if it lasts till then I'll be happy.

Also PM krawler if you want his bodily fluids to put into your motor, apparently if you put his piss into your motor you will get a gain of 20rwkw, and he told me this so it must be true, I dont know how much he is selling his piss for though, so because it is in such great demand, and he probably does not produce much he'll probably be charging a fortune! :) For now I'll stick with Roil.

  • Replies 283
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I emailed Roil and asked them if they have chlorinated parafins in their product. It doesn't say that it doesn't contain it in their FAQ, so if it really doesn't they should put that in there. I'll let you know if/when they reply.

You sure you havn't just come across a jealous skeptic, seriously, roil contains does not contain parafin...  :D

Jealous of what?

I emailed the email address given here, where I read the faq: http://freespace.virgin.net/car.oil/contac...act_details.htm

Ok I found this, which says that Roil doesn't contain paraffins. http://www.randyjustus.com/roil.htm But it doesn't say that it doesn't contain chlrorine.

If it doesn't contain them then I have to go back to my original theory that it contains calcium carbonate, because by the description it seems to do the exact same things as Oil Extreme. But why not just say what it contains?

Maybe it doesn't..... i don't think any of us are chemists, but magnatec also has a similar description, but it ain't no roil or oil extreme.... and certainly doesn't deliver on similar promises....

You didn't email roil, but simply an independant distributor that think they know, if you wanted an answer from those that make it, you'd need to try and track down someone in neways american....

Ok I found this, which says that Roil doesn't contain paraffins. http://www.randyjustus.com/roil.htm But it doesn't say that it doesn't contain chlrorine.

If it doesn't contain them then I have to go back to my original theory that it contains calcium carbonate, because by the description it seems to do the exact same things as Oil Extreme. But why not just say what it contains?

That's actually a pretty good site, never seen it before.... :thumbsup:

You didn't email roil, but simply an independant distributor that think they know, if you wanted an answer from those that make it, you'd need to try and track down someone in neways american....

The main concern isn't that it might or might not contain chlorinated paraffins, but what other potentially harmful products it might contain. We shouldn't have to go through them one by one, asking if Roil contains one of them. They should just tell us what is in it so we can do some independant research about its potential harm to our engines.

The site I linked to above is no more or less an authority on anything else quoted in here (by myself or other people) so I guess we're back to square one as to whether or not it contains anything potentially harmful.

I will ask my mechanic why he thinks Roil contains chlorinated paraffins when I go visit him tomorrow.

Very true, and I dont think they will happily give out their recipie, so it all comes back to pulling down a motor after long term use, then you will have soild proof or lack of proof to support that Roil contains/does not contain harmfull chemicals.

Personally I am not going to be telling my mechanic, and hopefully other SAU members who know I use it and got to the same mechanic wont blert it out, but I think if I told him he would have the same kneejerk reaction that most people do, and just could not be bothered trying to explain it to him, as being a mechanic he'll use his expert knowledge and experiance to refute the claims made. Well I am just guessing that will be his reaction, but then again I really dont know him that well so he could possibly have the opposite reaction, but meh, I just couldnt be bothered trying to do the whole explanation, sounds too much like a sales pitch when I do try to explain it to people, and I hate trying to sell stuff to other people!

Providing a list of ingredients doesn't give you the proportions, so its not like you could just read the label, go home, and knock up your own batch. It also makes no difference in terms of your competitors, as they can just send it off to a chemical lab to have it processed and get the exact proportions and contents.

In other words, there is no reason why it shouldn't be listed or at least made available somewhere in the company's materials on the product.

LW.

lwells

Did you know that Coke has a secret ingrediant that only 3 people in the world know what it is? It's mixed in different places and processed by several different companies who have no connection with each other.

Coke even has special clearance from Food authorities to not display it on their ingrediant labels.

One country tried to make them display it and they simply pulled out and didn't sell in that country.....

Segret ingredients are secret for a reason.

Damn, I got stooged.

But it may have been the KFC guys I'm thinking of.

Anyway, secrets are secrets.

I'm sure anyboyd who has succesfully aquired a patent knows how good a well kept secret can be.

where I work we manufacture plastisol, which is printing ink for garments, the type that sits on top of the garment that peels off eventually.

And we dont give out whats inside it either. We only let on what the law requires us to. Which is pretty much what could be possibly harmful.

I had to sign a huge declaration full of legal mumbo jumbo that I would not disclose what I know about this product now or in the future or basically they will sue my ass off.

Companies dont tell people whats inside for a reason, they wont want every joe blow to go and start copying there product when they have spent thousands, even millions doing all the r and d to get it right.

Anyway, secrets are secrets.

I'm sure anyboyd who has succesfully aquired a patent knows how good a well kept secret can be.

Rubbish. So what if Coca-Cola doesn't have the ingredient list on their product? That doesn't stop a competitor from taking to a lab and working out what's in it. In Coke's case, its more about "mystique" (the 'secret herbs & spices') than protecting their product.

Moreover, the point of a patent is to make the knowledge available, not to hide it. In return for protection of a product, the government (or holding authority) is given the complete details of an invention. Check your patent law history.

Edit: Speaking of the mythical '11 herbs and spices' of KFC, some consumer organisation actually had a priece of KFC chicken anaylised in a lab and found (from memory) that it had 4 fats and 3 spices. KFC doesn't advertise 11 herbs and spices anymore...

LW.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...