Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all, i'm just about to take the plunge into skyline ownership :) i'm currently looking at a very clean 95' R33 GRT V spec, and am after a bit of info.

R33 GT-R V-spec

what i want from the car is a street-able track car, basically i wish to do a few tarmac hillclimb events and some track days, but also be able to drive the car on the street, all for fun, not trying for anything serious, any mods i do, i wouldnt be looking for anymore then 260 AWKW, and focus more on handling.

the R33 i'm looking at has no handling mods done, stock suspension installed with a set of R34 rims, but comes with tiel coilovers, current owner has no dyno sheets, and the car looks in very very good shape inside and out, but it has 113k on the clock, which does bother me a bit and hence why i'm asking about the rebuild cost's.

performance mods for this car are as follow's

  • Greddy front mount intercooler
  • hard pipe kit
  • R34 N1 steel wheel turbo's
  • 3inch cat back exhaust
  • Tiel coilover (not installed)

what mods might the R33 need to make it a fun, but reliable track car

asking price for this car is 20.5k, but could possibly get it for around 18.5-19

R32 GT-R

i'm also looking at an R32 GTR that has been set up by a previous owner as a track car, including a bolt in 4 point roll cage, chassis has 140k on it, but full engine rebuild including pistons/rings, oil pump, timing belt ect, big end and main bearings, with all genuine nissan internal parts has 20k on it, this car includes

  • Excedy heavy duty clutch
  • siemen's 700cc injector's
  • roll cage (removable)
  • Apex power FC
  • HKS turbo's (can't remember exactly which ones, but i would guess GT-SS's?)
  • 3 inch cat back exhaust
  • adjustable cam gears
  • bosch 040 or 044 fuel pump
  • koni coilovers
  • R34 18 inch rims

this car has been dyno'd at 301 rwkw

all performance mods has 20k on them, asking price for this car is 18l, but could possibly talk it down to around the 16-17 mark.

i LOVE the shape of the R33's which is why the R33 is even there as i get the idea that the R32 will be a much better buy for what i'd like to use it for, but whats the opinions?

cheer's all, oh and first post :)

Edited by ttoks
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380011-trackstreet-r33-or-r32/
Share on other sites

id go the 33gtr - its a bit newer - has less mods done..

for both cars its common sense, but get a mechanic to have a look at it / both cars if you have the time and money.. drive both the cars and see how they feel..

what is the 32gtr selling for?

ps. its TEIN .. not TIEL

Edited by defari

Depends who built the 32's motor, I personally would take an unopened Nissan RB over a engine a random engine builder has put together, unless than builder has successfully put together many RBs

okay so how about a 1995 modle GRT V-spec, completly stock except a subtle body kit and turbo back exhaust with high flow cat, 55'000 KM's, asking price 20.500

or a lightly modded 95' GTR with 72'000 km's, askinf price 21'800

i'm guessing fore reliability the stock car would be better, but as i am trying to build my car on a budget, i'd like to get something that already has a few mods done, but will the tradeoff be worth it?

EDIT: also the R32 GTR has an asking price of 17'900, but after talking to the guy i feel i can get it down to around 16.5k mark.

i'm thinking value for money, the R32 would be the best value for money simply because it has the auxillery upgrades already installed, even if i factor in a full engine rebuild from a reputable builder with OEM parts (say around5k at a guess? or 8k for forged parts?) it will still come out cheaper then if i were to buy a low km R33 and buy the auxilleries with it, IE the turbos, power fc, injectors, fuel pump, roll cage for track days, HD clutch ect ect?

Edited by ttoks

dont worry to much about the km factor, have a good look at the car and under to ascertain its been looked after well, my vote would be r33 in this instance..

like its stated, its newer and while its not making as much power currently, it does have n1 wheels so can easily crack 300kw if needed

if theres anything ive learnt about GTR's, your better off spending a bit more when u buy the car instead of saving a couple of grand and gettin the cheaper one.

in the long run it will cost u a shit load more if u get the cheaper one

i know its your first one and you probably just wanna buy one so u can get in the cockpit and go, but take ur time and find one ur 100% sure u have one u wanna buy.

u can get a stock box redone for around 1300 bucks,.. thats new syncros bearings and labour

a reubuilt enigne.... you dont really wanna go there, especially if your on a budget

Edited by GTR_JOEY

no way in hell you would want to pay 17k for a BNR32 and 20k for BCNR33

i reckon you could get the BCNR33 for 17k and the BNR32 if you can get the BCNR33 for 17k then that should be surely worth sub 15k, even less, its over 20 years old!!!

ive seen stock BCNR33s go for 17k in melbourne

but, the big but is..........

if you plan to mod the car, but a modified one already

you will come out way in front buying a BCNR33 with all the mods vs buying a stock BCNR33 and the doing the mods yourself

no way in hell you would want to pay 17k for a BNR32 and 20k for BCNR33

i reckon you could get the BCNR33 for 17k and the BNR32 if you can get the BCNR33 for 17k then that should be surely worth sub 15k, even less, its over 20 years old!!!

ive seen stock BCNR33s go for 17k in melbourne

but, the big but is..........

if you plan to mod the car, but a modified one already

you will come out way in front buying a BCNR33 with all the mods vs buying a stock BCNR33 and the doing the mods yourself

well that's kinda my thoughts on this R32 i am looking at, say i can get the R32 for 16k, and i can talk the owner of the completely stock R33 down to 18k, how much am i going to spend getting my goal power and reliabilty from the R33? is it worth the risk going the R32 seeing as i have the potential to save quite a bit of money.

my overall budget limit is 25k for everything including mods, after around a reliable for track days 260 awkw as well of handling mods?

no way in hell you would want to pay 17k for a BNR32 and 20k for BCNR33

i reckon you could get the BCNR33 for 17k and the BNR32 if you can get the BCNR33 for 17k then that should be surely worth sub 15k, even less, its over 20 years old!!!

ive seen stock BCNR33s go for 17k in melbourne

but, the big but is..........

if you plan to mod the car, but a modified one already

you will come out way in front buying a BCNR33 with all the mods vs buying a stock BCNR33 and the doing the mods yourself

well that's kinda my thoughts on this R32 i am looking at, say i can get the R32 for 16k, and i can talk the owner of the completely stock R33 down to 18k, how much am i going to spend getting my goal power and reliabilty from the R33? is it worth the risk going the R32 seeing as i have the potential to save quite a bit of money.

my overall budget limit is 25k for everything including mods, after around a reliable for track days 260 awkw as well of handling mods?

25k including purchase price – isn’t even going to get you out of the driveway if you intend to go circuit racing.

IMO is that is your budget, you should be buying a R33 GTS-T and setting that up for track work… Why you might ask?

Turbo swap inclusive will be around $3500 if you are lucky. If you go the HKS items (identical to Garrett) you’ll be paying $4000+ total.

Then the usual supporting mods:

ECU $1000

Tune $600

Exhaust $600

Clutch $1100

Oil Cooler kit $600-$1000

Labour $800-$1200

Full service upon purchase $500 (that’s all oils motor/diff, plugs, new filter perhaps)

So far you’ve already minced $9000 if you are lucky, and you’ve not even drive the car yet.

Then the other stuff you’ll probably need

Coil Packs $600

Suspension $1200

Brakes $1000

Tyres $1200

Labour $1000

So maybe $5000 there, bringing you to around $14000. Add on another $3000 because shit never works out to plan when modifying cars

Leaves you $8,000 for a purchase price.

No idea how 113,000kms bothers you mate. That’s what, 7000kms a year – total b/s that is in most cases. :thumbsup:

So as I said earlier, buy a GTS-t and set that up for Track and do a LOT more reading of the forums.

You aren’t going to get far with 25k and a GTR. Even buying a worked R32 GTR – Just the maintenance costs alone if you do half a dozen track days + street driving - you will blow your budget.

25k including purchase price – isn't even going to get you out of the driveway if you intend to go circuit racing.

IMO is that is your budget, you should be buying a R33 GTS-T and setting that up for track work… Why you might ask?

Turbo swap inclusive will be around $3500 if you are lucky. If you go the HKS items (identical to Garrett) you'll be paying $4000+ total.

Then the usual supporting mods:

ECU $1000

Tune $600

Exhaust $600

Clutch $1100

Oil Cooler kit $600-$1000

Labour $800-$1200

Full service upon purchase $500 (that's all oils motor/diff, plugs, new filter perhaps)

So far you've already minced $9000 if you are lucky, and you've not even drive the car yet.

Then the other stuff you'll probably need

Coil Packs $600

Suspension $1200

Brakes $1000

Tyres $1200

Labour $1000

So maybe $5000 there, bringing you to around $14000. Add on another $3000 because shit never works out to plan when modifying cars

Leaves you $8,000 for a purchase price.

No idea how 113,000kms bothers you mate. That's what, 7000kms a year – total b/s that is in most cases. :thumbsup:

So as I said earlier, buy a GTS-t and set that up for Track and do a LOT more reading of the forums.

You aren't going to get far with 25k and a GTR. Even buying a worked R32 GTR – Just the maintenance costs alone if you do half a dozen track days + street driving - you will blow your budget.

now this is more the sorta stuff i'm looking for :)

i supose i should clarify, 25k is my short term (ie first 6 months of ownership) budget, i work a reasonably high paying job, so down the track i am going to have more money to throw at the car, due to short term work commitments i wont be doing any track days for atound 4-5 motnhs giving me plenty of time to upgrade what needs to be upgraded, and in the mean time i'll spend the time getting aquinted with the car on the street :)

although right now i am seriously leaning towards the completely stock low KM R33 V-spec, it's close, i've just spoken with the owner again i can drive it home tomorrow for 19k, with rwc, new tires, full service history, and then i've got a known base to start from, even if it does end up costing more in the long run, i have no intention of selling this car (unless something drastic happens)

owning a GTR is my childhood dream car, not a GTS-T, so i'm fairly set on a GTR but as you say alot more reading for me i think :)

If you are dead set, save the 25k.

Buy a modded 33r for round 30k in a few months. There is always 3-4 at any given time from a good stable. All basically track ready.

You'll easily save yourself 10k+. And all the time and bullshit that goes with it.

It's exactly what I did for my current car rather than building another from scratch.

Lol low km on 16 year old cars. My 33 has 86xxxkm on it. How much of that you believe its up to you. Buy a car based on condition not the odo n shit. its not too hard to get a stock gtr to 260awkw... I like my cars with the bare minimal mods, exhaust, suspension, cooler.

That 32 might sound tempting but its a half track car, how much abuse has it seen and how sound is the motor? my car was stock as a rock. 5k later I'm around 280rwkw and I know the car inside out.

Again 100% behind Nismoid,

I was the same as you, bought a basically stock R33 GTR thinking I didn't want one to molested, then not long after looked at doing mods $$$$$$$ holy s**t your blast through the cash real quick..

So got rid of of stock one and for about $6K more bought one with 2.8L and everything, about $50K worth of mods, you never get that money back..

As said if its built, just make sure it was done by a reputable workshop, and get it checked.

Look in the for-sale section here, there are always bargains and you can usually find a bit of history on them, lastly do a lot of tyre kicking and look at heaps thumbsup.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...