Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 years later...

nah its the diesel... has no go off the line. car feels very heavy.

nice to cruise tho.

you might think it's a little slower because you're used to a faster car. But 320nm of torque in a 1.7l turbo diesel motor is awesome. You can get 1500km to a tank of fuel highway driving in one of those too. I sell Hyundai's and i'm currently driving one for a drive car - i think it's great i enjoy driving it every day. Nice and smooth comfy and power is great.

The question you have to ask is; if you can get 320nm of torque and 1500km per tank from 1.7l,

Why wouldn't you make it 2.2l or 2.4l with a wide ratio box, & actually have a car that goes fast AND gets good fuel economy?

The question you have to ask is; if you can get 320nm of torque and 1500km per tank from 1.7l,

Why wouldn't you make it 2.2l or 2.4l with a wide ratio box, & actually have a car that goes fast AND gets good fuel economy?

Cause mazda already did that with the 6 diesel. 2.2 litre 130kw 420nw 5.4l per 100

And Hyundai owners are povos, that wouldn't pony up for a mazda.

Would not buy.

If you found out the cost of servicing and replacement of parts on these modern diesels you would freak, the particulate filters alone are worth 3-4k and can block every year or two.

I punched one out the other day as it was clogged, the customer couldn't afford the 4k for a new one from Subaru. So happens there are temp sensors in there to help diagnose the burn off phase, without the medium in there this doesn't happen well at all obviously. When the fuel gets dumped to do the clean the car now goes into limp mode. :/

I punched one out the other day as it was clogged, the customer couldn't afford the 4k for a new one from Subaru. So happens there are temp sensors in there to help diagnose the burn off phase, without the medium in there this doesn't happen well at all obviously. When the fuel gets dumped to do the clean the car now goes into limp mode. :/

Love a bit of engineered failure; how else can you make money out of reliable cars?

My point exactly.

Add to that the stupid direct injection issues of carbon build-up around the intake valves and you have some serious maintenance issues, cars are definitely not designed to do half a million k's anymore, not without massive servicing costs.

And Hyundai owners are povos, that wouldn't pony up for a mazda.

5 year unlimited km warranty, 7 year roadside assist, 3 years capped price servicing (15,000km-12 month intervals) full size spare better put together interior (easier to navigate and more updated), better features, better value for money and a better looking car is a handful of reasons why i'd buy an I40 over a dolphin-nosed Mazda.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wanted to add some of my R33 GTST  R34 GTR wheels, 18x9 ET30 with 255/35/R18 PS4S'   BBS RE-V7 029 18x9.5 ET22 with 255/35/R18 PS4S' Needs a bit of camber   
    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...