Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

i just got myself a r34 4door for drifting (unlicensed)

mods: fmic, bov, pod filter, power fc, boost controller, brand new nissan H/duty clutch, exhaust.

also has suspension already

the car is sitting on 12 psi making arond 280 hp

whats the next little items i need ?

And the H/duty clutch hasnt gone in yet so if i should get another one just let me no please :)

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/
Share on other sites

As above plus save the money you are planning on mods to maintain the car, no doubt you will need new front and rear bars, lots of tyres etc

Dont get into the trap of constantly modifying stuff, Wait until you have oerfected sliding the car as is before chasing more power etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6071852
Share on other sites

here she is

You'd probably want to lower it for better stability and handling for drifting.

Work on the Suspension / Braking / Tyres.

Power mods is not necessary if you are just starting out.

All should be good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6072064
Share on other sites

You'd probably want to lower it for better stability and handling for drifting.

Work on the Suspension / Braking / Tyres.

Power mods is not necessary if you are just starting out.

All should be good.

Why?

It would just f**k the roll centres going any lower than that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6072069
Share on other sites

braking?! standard calipers would be fine.

Get it out to the track, fix shit you break and when you feel your ready for more power, or more lock then go for it.

Oh, a must have is a good, supportive seat it makes a world of difference.

Edited by Run-It-Hard
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6072075
Share on other sites

Just get as much track time as possible, seems like it's a decent base to learn in already.

1000 times this.

Your car is pretty epic already, just get out there and rip some skids :D

Maybe invest in a gopro too so you can not only upload to youtube and show off your maaaaad skills, but you can watch your videos and see what you can improve on and maybe get other pro people to comment too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6072098
Share on other sites

braking?! standard calipers would be fine.

Get it out to the track, fix shit you break and when you feel your ready for more power, or more lock then go for it.

Oh, a must have is a good, supportive seat it makes a world of difference.

That's just me.

Upgrade brakes to take a higher heat range and more response.

Each to their own.

And yes, a racing seat will make a difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6072334
Share on other sites

most important mod = welded diff / 1.5 way or 2way

Negative, I learn't on an open diff. If anything it'll be better to learn with less. You'll then realise how things work/make it easier when you start adding parts to the car.

VLSD would be fine for now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6073023
Share on other sites

That's just me.

Upgrade brakes to take a higher heat range and more response.

Each to their own.

And yes, a racing seat will make a difference.

upgrading brakes is just a waste of money on a drift car, you won't have any issues with stock gear and half decent pads

get a decent seat, make sure the diff is locked and go drifting, you don't need anything else

Maybe invest in a gopro too so you can not only upload to youtube and show off your maaaaad skills, but you can watch your videos and see what you can improve on and maybe get other pro people to comment too.

dont get a gopro if you buy a camera as there shit :down:

Negative, I learn't on an open diff. If anything it'll be better to learn with less. You'll then realise how things work/make it easier when you start adding parts to the car.

VLSD would be fine for now.

.....

just lock the diff, drifting without a diff that locks it just a waste of time and it won't teach you anything

Edited by driftnick13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6073029
Share on other sites

i think the car has a 2 way diff now :) and suspension i dropped and is tucking 18'' tyres and has got a recaro bucket seat, brakes i will needa replace and what sort of clutch do i need? i got a H/duty nissan clutch but its brand new and not in the car yet

long story short...... it was my brohers car, he go it from SA and didnt license it, then f**ked the clutch so parked it up and owed my dad 13k so dad said that he will keep the skyline and dont worry about the bill and dad gave it to me :) :) (daddys boy much haha )

so yea i no the cars back ground and everyhing :)

and yes theres a 33 gtst (mine) 34 gtt (mums) 34 gtr (dads) 34 gtt (sisters) and yea....family of skylines

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6073265
Share on other sites

Fuuuuuu, you lucky bastard! hahaha.

Sounds like your car is good to go mate, you've ticked pretty much every box we've suggested.

Just get a fire extinguiser and I think that'll do it. needs to be at least 1kg and have a metal bracket then placed with in reach of the driver.

That clutch should do ok. I've got a Jim Berry Full Monty for sale if you want it pirate.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6075008
Share on other sites

Speak to ISC-PERFORMANCE and get a set of n1 coil overs, rear camber arms, hicas lock bar, front caster rods, rear traction rods. Then just get used to the power you have now :) also a 2way diff is a must. Also make sure your handbrake is upto scratch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380780-got-a-drift-car/#findComment-6076936
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...