Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok so the car is going back into the tuners monday to have a look at the tune, as the problems that I have described that werent appearing on the dyno the other day. But to overlook it being the car, I plugged my spare normal power fc I have sitting here in with the AFM and the car drove perfect today. The car will be looked at for free. Although poeple are saying to go with a different tuner and why ditch the proven setup, if im paying the cost of getting another tune elsewhere....then I want a a much newer, better ecu to be tuned.

I wont go the normal power fc with afm because is A; the cost Nismo items are 700-900 or the z32s are 600 with an 600-800 piping kit. and b; I had one of my afm's on my gtr die already and I dont wish to take that risk again for the tune or replacement afm cost.

If im spending that much money on getting AFM's with piping, then it makes more sense to buy the haltech or vipec/link for similar money, with 32x32 mapping, much more features and generally 10 years more technology than the aging power fc. I love my normal power fc, but it just seems silly spending that much money on the intake system when I could have a newer more mappable ecu for the same/less cost without afm.

I have been reccomended the haltech by my tuner and many others in my area. I will keep an update on whats happening.

haltech actually has sequential ignition, where as the vipec plug in runs batch fire.. haltech has more bells and whissles. and is quite easy to tune. + support is very good. where as vipec support is non existant ive found.

you can run afms or map sensor with the haltech.

haltech actually has sequential ignition, where as the vipec plug in runs batch fire.. haltech has more bells and whissles. and is quite easy to tune. + support is very good. where as vipec support is non existant ive found.

you can run afms or map sensor with the haltech.

what are you going on about ?

The vipec runs sequential fuel, and uses wasted spark, the vipec has more bells and whistles then the haltech really.

The Vi-pec support comming out of LINK NZ is very good. whenever I need anything I just give them a message or call on Skype and we are all sorted, we don't have to bother picking up the phone anymore? where else can you get that kinda support?

things have changed in the vipec world, BUT it still is the premium product and has more to offer then the link does.

The Link G4 is just a badged Vipec, if it were the other way around where is the Vipec G2 G3 's ? there are none. The VIPEC came and then link made it available.

As for vipecsupport bieng non existent, what planet are you on?! That is by far the best thing about going to a viper that I've found. Ray will literally walk on fire to make sure you have got the product and end user support you want and need, and the features on such a low cost unit are impressive. They are easy to tune and the auto tune Is designed for six year olds to use, it really is that easy. Whatever way you go, haltech or vipec, you are getting a quality product, and I would buy either, but neither deserves a bashing.

Cheers, allan

i thought about the vipec and autronic, but decided i will go with the haltech plug in, has everything i need can run dual maps and i am not personally a fan of the wasted spark setup, the tuner deals with haltech was happy to tune the others but price wise and ease of support with the haltech i think its on the money all up $2500 fitted and tuned :)

what are you going on about ?

The vipec runs sequential fuel, and uses wasted spark, the vipec has more bells and whistles then the haltech really.

The Vi-pec support comming out of LINK NZ is very good. whenever I need anything I just give them a message or call on Skype and we are all sorted, we don't have to bother picking up the phone anymore? where else can you get that kinda support?

things have changed in the vipec world, BUT it still is the premium product and has more to offer then the link does.

The Link G4 is just a badged Vipec, if it were the other way around where is the Vipec G2 G3 's ? there are none. The VIPEC came and then link made it available.

Other way round :) And just because there weren't Vipec V33/22 ect doesn't mean anything. Vipec was a 'brand' launched when Link made the G4 range. That's all there is to it.

Link made the hardware and have the G4/Storm etc range.. and for some reason decided to create another brand for other markets. Not sure why people are still confused about this?

see below...

from the link website:

History:

Link was one of the very early market entrants twenty years ago. 2010 witnessed a turn-around in the market perception of the Link name thanks to the technical excellence of its product. The launch of the ViPEC brand has seen a new product pitched against high end competitors with outstanding results. Continued clear and unambiguous differentiation is further required to propel the ViPEC name higher

haltech actually has sequential ignition, where as the vipec plug in runs batch fire.. haltech has more bells and whissles. and is quite easy to tune. + support is very good. where as vipec support is non existant ive found.

you can run afms or map sensor with the haltech.

I found it the other way. more Vipec > Haltech.

Why not wolf V500?

I am running a wolf v500 in my 33 GTR same features as the vipec but quite a few more.

All depending on the tuner's preference but I ran both Power FC and Wolf V500. The features in the Wolf are IMO alot better than both Haltech and Vipec along with support being excellent.

i just prefer the way the haltech is set up. they have taken all the good bits from alot of the more established ecus and combined them into 1 ecu. as far as support goes. a sydney distributer i have tried to contact is never available.

as far as featurs go, the haltech has all you could really need. it can be tuned in ve mode or injection time mode. just a easy as pie ecu to get set up and tuned. drilling out a factory ecu case and retrofitting a whole circuit board into it is abit dodgy. its not a nistune....

One thing i don't like about the Vipec is all the claims about it being 100% sorted and much better than anything on the market. Theres often problems and when you ask about the problem you get "Yes we know about that and will have a fix soon" Thats not sorted or the best on the Market.

Haltech have been great, new firmware is sent out for free as soon as its ready so you can stay upto date, They understand things move on fast in the ECU world so don't make silly claims about being the greatest like Vipec people did.

at the end of the day, they're both great choices and with most features than most would use. If your tuner and others in the area are going with Haltech, that would seem to be the most logical choice.

Once you've got it in, get the car setup for flex-fuel :D

  • 2 weeks later...

if there is the ability for it to take a digital signal input (like the G4) then you should be able to setup Flex-fuel - much better than the 'two map' scenario.

Im potentially looking at a new ecu for my 34gtr, currently running power fc djetro but I want something that is a lot smoother.

So... your post implies that it's not possible to have a smooth tune with an fc djetro, and it seems everyone agrees with you as no-one has said "just get it tuned properly". Am i missing something?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...