Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, have an RB20 tuned on E85 to 250rwkw on 18psi, it's a track car, but it seems to be fouling the plugs every few track days. some come out covered in carbon, some ive pulled out before that almost looked like water corrosion a bit with what looks like rust on the bottom of the thread. they are BCPR6E's gapped down to .7mm

wondering if it's worth changing the heat range for these now i'm running E85, or is the issue possibly in the ignition system which is causing them to not ignite properly, which might be causing the fouling? cold start is irrelevant, as long as she's on song when it's warmed up and ready to go.

i've read a few threads, but the main one on the topic of plugs with e85 turned into a shit fight about e85 itself.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382019-plugs-for-rb20-on-e85/
Share on other sites

it's dry/matte and comes off quite easily, not sure if there's a way burning oil can give that effect, but i just assume carbon. it only really appeared on 2-3 of the plugs, but that itself would explain the slight miss i was getting after a few events.

ignition system from the coilpacks to plug is fresh, running AU coilpacks with leads, probably should have mentioned that haha. coilpacks are brand new, leads are new etc etc. was gonna measure for voltage drop, but haven't had time.

The part number on those plugs, is that BCPR6E or BCPR6ES ? (ie: did you put the apostrophe "s" after for plural or was that part of the part number?)

The reason i ask is that they are different plugs & no "s" is not the right projection for an rb!

as mentioned.. there is vertually zero carbon build up in an e85 fuelled engine. will be clean as a whistle inside. however if its rich and you do a lot of cold starts it will have a lot of condensation/moisture build up leading to the corrosion you see

The part number on those plugs, is that BCPR6E or BCPR6ES ? (ie: did you put the apostrophe "s" after for plural or was that part of the part number?)

The reason i ask is that they are different plugs & no "s" is not the right projection for an rb!

good call mate, they were 6E's, just bought some 6ES's, will probably chuck them in tomorrow, i doubt it'll do much whilst still fresh, but if anything hopefully they don't foul up as quick. how does it affect the RB's? is there all that much difference between the V and the flat faced one?

The part number on those plugs, is that BCPR6E or BCPR6ES ? (ie: did you put the apostrophe "s" after for plural or was that part of the part number?)

The reason i ask is that they are different plugs & no "s" is not the right projection for an rb!

ermmm...any info to back this claim up?

BCPR6ES = Standard electrode

BCPR6E = V-groove electrode. NGK claims Improved ignitability due to sparking at periphery of the electrode.

250kw, I would go 7's. As mentioned on NGK website:

============

Example Take a Holden engine which as standard uses a BPR 5ES spark plug. (The heat range for this spark plug is 5, please refer to our part number identification for further information) If a customer were to install a turbocharger, intercooler and exhaust system to this vehicle, it would be suggested to start with a spark plug with a 7 heat range (BPR 7ES) to be on the safe side. The customer would then need to perform some road testing,

* firstly applying half throttle

* then inspecting the plugs,

* ¾ throttle then again inspecting the plugs

* and eventually full throttle.

At any stage of inspection if the plugs upon removal are very clean and white along the insulator nose this would indicate that the spark plugs are reaching their upper temperature threshold and as such obviously may not withstanding the temperature at full throttle. Fouling a set of spark plugs is very cheap compared to the cost of the engine modifications performed and insignificant compared to the amount of research and design that goes into producing the engine by a vehicle manufacturer.

==========

Nice cut n paste rekin, anyway.... Proof, if you have em on the shelf or next time you are at your local parts store, get them to put all three (E, ES, EY) on the counter and look at them, all the proof you need!!! (& for the hell of it get a BKR plug aswell)

BCPR#E is not the same as a BCPR#EY, yes both are v-groove (E used to be solid), but there is a projection difference (quite significantly shorter in E, ie: will foul quicker in an RB)!

Simply looking at a website or catalogue doesnt make you a professional parts interpreter, a little knowledge can be dangerous!

Why is there a solid 's' and a v-groove 'y', well not really sure why solid hasnt been made redundant yet, as the v-groove is superior & the same price, but many car makers still recommend solids, so eh!

CP vs K

NGK_CPvsK.jpg

The BKR is shorter! Doesn't this mean that the coil pack wont be making as good a connection as the longer CPR? As the BKR plug will be sitting down lower in the valley.

The BKR would be fine with a set of external coil packs with ignition leads. But if your using old coil packs especially with worn out graphite electrodes, there wont be too much of a good connection.

Edited by kitto

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...