Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi every1,

Im having issues with weak radio reception in my r34.

Done some research and found this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/250936-weak-radio-signal/

Just wanted to clarify, on my stock harness I have a blue cable with 'Ant control" on it, that isnt connected to anything.

Is this the wire which I should be soldering in to an antenna wire on the back of my head unit (Im pretty sure there was one).

Just dont want to screw anything up and plan on giving it a go tomorrow.

Have taken a picture of the harness so u can see the wire im talking about.

Thanks heaps in advance.

post-86021-0-75429300-1320489562_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382164-r34-gtt-poor-radio-reception/
Share on other sites

yes follow the instructions and you be right

but note

GTT and R34 in general have horrible radio reception,

tint affects it- some are ceramic, or metallized

landscape does, hills. mtns, builidngs

mutipath in citys does, reflection off metal objects causes mutiple paths of signal to hit the receiver causing drop outs

nissans horrble idea of diversity antennnas in the glass , not a good ground plane

most of the time the hack who installs the jap to oz signal box cuts the wires and tapes them up. not buying the right jack to interface it. thats the first place to check radio reception issues on JDM cars- NISSAN for sure

and if your still having issues check behind the c pillar sail panels in the rear , sometime the antenna wires into the rear glass are unplugged ? or cut

and now with DAB broadcasts you need a better antenna then factory . I use a amplified shark fin(smaller then you pinky finger long). tiny one for DAB tv and radio, works a treat and not horrble looking like some fins

hope that helps before you rip your hair out

  • 2 years later...

Hi guys,

Apologies for the thread revival.

I have installed a Blaupunkt New York 800 in my R34.

I've used an aeropro (from Repco) ISO to Nissan adaptor.

Anyway... the blue wire (ant control) as shown on the OPs pic - where do I actually connect this to on this particular HU?

On a slightly unrelated question - is there some sort of auto dim function (wire) for the HU when I turn on the headlights? As I find the HU way too bright during the night and am forced to manually dim the unit via software settings.

the link to the thread from OP mentions having an adaptor to the antenna and an extra single pin plug. I currently have this adaptor from JB hifi

http://jcbid.com/images2/9/3/6/7/2//full/SCOSCHE-NDAB-NISSAN-DIVERSITY-ANTENNA-ADAPTER.jpg

the original connection goes into the right side female end, and the red plug goes into the antenna hole in my head unit. What do i put into the remaining end?

My reception is dodgy and scatty :(

  • 2 months later...

Recently replaced the windscreen in R34 GTT 4 door and now my radio reception pretty poor.

I believe the aerial is in the windscreen but my new screen does not have one apparently.

what is the best solution?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...