Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hahahahaha what? T78s are very amusing, but they make the combination being talked about here look really really really good. They are good for good power, and are strong, but man they are spastically laggy for the power they make and come on retardedly!

they arent that laggy compared to other turbos of the same size and...........age lol

I am kinda regretting it though...they are so bloody big I have no idea if it will fit and look neat....bugger all room for a dump pipe!

I have seen plenty of results of them matching GT40R powered JZ's for response and making a touch more power, but we shall see how she goes lol

pic related

317365_10150352096026699_526751698_8411653_320799325_n.jpg

It will be fun, thats for sure :) There are quite a lot of turbos out now which make GT40Rs look out of date as well, turbo tech has been making good progress in the last few years. If you need the flow of a T78, and have one anyway - then its not going to be the worst you can do.

OK Enough Greddy talk, this is a garrett thread.

Ok N1 id be willing to donate $100 towards some high flow twin setup development.. If we could find another 19 member we could put a large dent in the initial outlay? Would be nice to keep them in true direct bolt on loosing that would suck! We could name them after the forum something catchy like -5AU. LOL

Love that name hahaha!!

It will be fun, thats for sure :) There are quite a lot of turbos out now which make GT40Rs look out of date as well, turbo tech has been making good progress in the last few years. If you need the flow of a T78, and have one anyway - then its not going to be the worst you can do.

Its funny though...i threw it up on ebay the other day (like I said looks like a pain to fit)...someone has bought it lol

Will be interesting to see :) TD05 > GT28... I'm trying to hold it in, but I think GT28s have no place on RBs. If people want >400hp, they should have a decent single. If you want less than 400hp, toughen up ;)

I'd love to go single on my GTR.... But I'm to scared of the cops.... That's the main reason alot of people stay with twins I think

Everybody is scared of the cops in NSW... But honestly what for?

I dont know anyone with a normal modified car thats been sent to the pits. I know lots of morons with 2sus charades that do, and some unfortunate prick with an R32 that lived next door to an EPA guy (neighborly conflict). Other than these there has been the odd case where a mate got EPA'd driving around his drift pig.

If you have a reasonably well maintained car and dont gate by cops on a regular basis you should be ok. They seem to respect enthusiasts. This means you will need to lop your mullet off and reduce the level of epic in your do if you want to get away with a big single.

EPA do not allow anything non standard or meeting OEM specs... IE FPR, front mount, exhaust

Its more of an 'anti hoon' thing than it is environmental.. They actually print a photo of what the engine bay of your car looks like stock. If they open your GTR bonnet and theres a f**k off single in there they send you packing. Come back when you fix this, but sir I spent a lof of money fixing that twin turbo POS problem?! :(

I know someone who was arseholed by a hoon squad guy. He was driving to dinner doing a genuine 45km in 50km zone being followed by an unmarked Ford XR6/Typhoon. The guy started defecting everything in sight and not in sight to the extent (as I understand it) he was made to tow it home. The officer in question said "I love getting pieces of shit like this off the road".

There a few of these cops out there who really like da power.

There a few of these cops out there who really like da power.

I was stood face to face and told I am a piece of shit and that he cant wait to sign my death certificate when I turn up dead. Head moron and two highway dudes at Bankstown police. Apparently Id raped his wife (by speeding at 4am).

NSW highway patrol = those kids the bullies picked on at school, now getting their revenge on society. Kents should undergo a drilling of a syk val before they get given that job, I have met ones that I can safely say need to be in that role.. But the rest, screw that.

Lith from what I read Ford went from a GT3582R to a GT3576R in the upspec XR6T thing , can't think of the name of it - Typhoon ?

The original XR6T GT3582R did use a T04E 0.50 AR compressor housing which looks a bit small in the flesh , though I think they only ran 6 pounds of boost .

A GTX 76 compressor may pump close to what the GT82mm compressor does while having a little less innertia .

I agree that GTX compressors seem to make more flow at higher pressure ratios (boost) , I think Garrett could experiment with larger compressor housings on them to see if they can gain flow at more normal PRs .

As has been mention with turbines I too bitch about these because Garrett couldn't not know that these need work as well not just the compressor end . They could start with the TR30R turbine which like the GT30 is 60mm but unlike the GT has 9 blades instead of 10 and comes in 73 or 76 trims rather than the largish 84 trim .

Even easier would be to option the GT30 and GT35 turbines in 78 trim like they did with GT37 and GT40 turbines in their big frame BB turbos .

Garrett should take a leaf out of HKSs book and try to understand what "Power and Response" really means , it was never intended to mean ultimate power number turbos because ultimate performance and response don't go together .

A .

Lith from what I read Ford went from a GT3582R to a GT3576R in the upspec XR6T thing , can't think of the name of it - Typhoon ?

The original XR6T GT3582R did use a T04E 0.50 AR compressor housing which looks a bit small in the flesh , though I think they only ran 6 pounds of boost .

A GTX 76 compressor may pump close to what the GT82mm compressor does while having a little less innertia .

I agree that GTX compressors seem to make more flow at higher pressure ratios (boost) , I think Garrett could experiment with larger compressor housings on them to see if they can gain flow at more normal PRs .

As has been mention with turbines I too bitch about these because Garrett couldn't not know that these need work as well not just the compressor end . They could start with the TR30R turbine which like the GT30 is 60mm but unlike the GT has 9 blades instead of 10 and comes in 73 or 76 trims rather than the largish 84 trim .

Even easier would be to option the GT30 and GT35 turbines in 78 trim like they did with GT37 and GT40 turbines in their big frame BB turbos .

Garrett should take a leaf out of HKSs book and try to understand what "Power and Response" really means , it was never intended to mean ultimate power number turbos because ultimate performance and response don't go together .

A .

Is there a diffence between the gt3582r and the "gt3540" - I can tell you that the standard ford branded gt35 made more hp than the gcg gt3582r. Have seen two applications to back up results. Both where with same rear spec 1.06 rear.

What sorta power was that Dave?

380kw on 20psi went 365 on 25psi......

How have you guys established that its the turbine side which is choking them?

Could always go to T518Zs if GT28s aren't enough, a lot easier ;)

i measured back pressure on a -10 equiped rb2630 we had at work that just would not makle power over 18psi.

on 14psi there was 25psi back pressure. on 18-20psi it had 35-40psi back pressure.... (30psi boost guage the needle wraped around to 0.. and our dyno can only read 30psi.

Yes what most people call a GT3582R is the same as a GT3540R - at least center section and wheels wise . From what I've seen there has only been two cartridge variations and the other was the HKS spec GT"3240R" which has a cropped GT35 turbine (roughly GT32 turbine dimensionally) and its compressor wheel is a slightly smaller trim 82mm GT40 one as well .

The early Ford XR6T version started the integral wastegate ball rolling because at that time Garrett didn't have T3 flanged IW turbine housings for GT30s and GT35s . No way Ford was going ext gate so had to organise a suitable turbine housing .

The compressor side was different in that they used a smaller T04E rather than T04S compressor housing and adapter ring , possibly to keep the air speed up in a low boost application .

I think these days Ford went to a GT3576R , probably same compressor as a real GT3076R , which possibly works better in the T04E compressor housing . They would have tested different variations of wheels and housings and came up with the easiest cost effective solution that suited their purpose .

A bigger 4L six should make reasonable torque in four valve form and done right it shouldn't need huge turbos to make tractionless RWD performance . I wouldn't think Ford'd splash out for high rev engine internals so enough performance to please the average rat bag is adequate .

A .

380kw on 20psi went 365 on 25psi......

i measured back pressure on a -10 equiped rb2630 we had at work that just would not makle power over 18psi.

on 14psi there was 25psi back pressure. on 18-20psi it had 35-40psi back pressure.... (30psi boost guage the needle wraped around to 0.. and our dyno can only read 30psi.

Attempting to push 2530's harder! Whats the consensus of whether to open up the entry to the wastegate flap on hks 2530's? More area on the flap would apply more force to blow it open?

These could be my next upgrade (4th set) of actuators the dual ports look real nice!

http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/efr-dual-port-internal-wg-actuator.html

Now i wonder if running boost pressure to the bottom side of the gate will enable me to crack 30psi up top with the 19psi actuators or head straight to the 35psi units? Be interesting to see base pressure with the 35psi ones! :domokun:

The reliability of the stock extruded manifolds are great but at 460awkw i wonder if theres power there aswell?

Edited by Ryan1200

Good to see this thread returning back to the original topic! after all that rubbish in the middle!

@discopotato03 - It's good to see someone with a genuine knowledge and interest in turbos rather than a "heresay" opininon which seems to be the common trend lately lol. Your always an intersting read :thumbsup: keep it up mate!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...