Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First thread start in this section so please be gentle.

Thinking about track/race only R32/R33/R34 GTR's with no 4WD... is the trade off between the weight lost at the front without the front diff., drive shafts and also transfer case behind the gearbox be a greater advantage over the 4WD grip?

When you consider when you remove the front sump/diff. you could fit a custom shallow dry sump oil pan, without the transfer case you could fit a ex-Supertaxi seq. box without worrying about the transfer case.

The GT cars in Japan were all rear wheel drive only be it for rules or reliability.

What are peoples thoughts?

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why mutilate a waste you're money on a gtr. Get a gtst

Congratulations on being the first to make that comment but not the intention of the thread.

We are talking about a GTR with less weight at the front (50-100kg?) dry sump with lowered engine (lower COG), no t/case... maybe a seq. gearbox too. In comparison with a similar spec. GTR with 4WD and the additional weight associated... same power i.e. 600hp.

The GTR 33-34 have a much better set up than a gtst STD . They have better suspension uprights on the front alloy rear hubs better guards to swallow massive wheels and I am sure the chassis has a lot of other little bits that make it better than a gtst. A gtr chassis in rwd would be great expessially with nice engine package. Quicker? Fun yes :-)

nope.

kw for kw, tyre for tyre, brake for brake etc etc everything identical, the 4wd will beat the 100kg lighter 2wd because it can get out of 2/3rd gear corners faster by putting more power to the ground and doesn't give that much away by the end of the straight or in the braking zone. Maybe if we were talking closer to 200kg difference i'd change my mind.

Find a 3/4 gear track and they are getting closer

Find a 4/5/6 gear track and the lighter car might just sneak in front.

But for such a small difference in weight on most Australian tracks, nope.

nope.

kw for kw, tyre for tyre, brake for brake etc etc everything identical, the 4wd will beat the 100kg lighter 2wd because it can get out of 2/3rd gear corners faster by putting more power to the ground and doesn't give that much away by the end of the straight or in the braking zone. Maybe if we were talking closer to 200kg difference i'd change my mind.

Find a 3/4 gear track and they are getting closer

Find a 4/5/6 gear track and the lighter car might just sneak in front.

But for such a small difference in weight on most Australian tracks, nope.

Great input... thanks

This thead is right up my alley :)

Have a read of this article done by Autocult.net on me and my car.

http://autocult.net/

Interesting... would you be as fast or faster as a R32 GTR with the same power? I recognise that there are a lot of other differences.

Sorry but I do not know a lot about track times and what is good where.

Have you weighed your car Russ?

I'd be taking a rough guess that you'd be around 250-300kg lighter than say Chris/Ant who are still full weight GTRs?

(group visit to the weight bridge! haha)

Interesting... would you be as fast or faster as a R32 GTR with the same power? I recognise that there are a lot of other differences.

Sorry but I do not know a lot about track times and what is good where.

Short answer is yes.

Like Ash has said I'm approx 200kg lighter and about 60kw less than most Vic GTR's and we are neck and neck.

Upside is that I use less tyres, brakes etc to do it! Mid corner is faster too which is what I reckon is the most fun.

Have you weighed your car Russ?

Haven't had it weighed but it's not that lightened. Sound deadening, air con etc gone but has a heavy cage put back in so it's only just lighter than standard I reckon.

Let me apologise to the forum police.

This is specific to the motorsport guys with genuine experience and semi/professional opinion not a bunch of teenagers who want to drift their GTR or do burnouts.

touchy aren't you, did you read the first thread?

let me quote it for you.

Hey guys,

I have this theory which I base my car around: That in the long run with a decent budget on the car, an R32 GTS-T will be faster around the track than it's flagship brother; the R32 GTR (assuming both with the same RB26 engine). This is because of these factors:

- GTS-T is lighter and better front to rear weight balance.

- With modifications the GTS-T will be further lighter.

- The R32 GTR has the most understeer and eliminating that will provide more potential.

- GTS-T will have faster turn in from lighter front.

- An AWD system is only used for additional traction so if aero parts are in and modified correctly then the extra weight of AWD is not needed.

- R32 AWD system too primitive.

- More fun around the track.

- Cheaper.

There is a reason all the JGTC and GT class Skylines are all RWD, I'm sure it's from the fact that from long term modification, the AWD system is no longer needed. If you look at the statistics, the GTS-T is already 110kg lighter than the GTR (standard eninges), and whatever you can do to the GTR you can do to the GTS-T. Now before anyone starts flaming, I'm not hating on the GTRs but I dare you guys to prove me wrong on this.

Statistics:

R32 GTR

Curb weight: 1430kg

Drivetrain: F4

Track width front and rear: 1480mm / 1480mm

Wheelbase: 2615mm

Suspension: Independent multi-link

R32 GTS-T

Curb weight: 1320kg

Drivetrain: FR

Track width front and rear: 1460mm / 1460mm

Wheelbase: 2615mm

Suspension: Independant multi-link

umad?

Been here done most of that......

My old R32 GTR which was raced not just tracked had a terrible issue smashing front diffs off the grid.

I'd get the first race down and the rest of the weekend would be spent with a crownwheel floating around in the front diff.

The car would be very difficult to drive when the front diff would first let go. After some chassis work to make livable I would end up leaving the front diff broken for the rest of the weekends

Nothing else would change just no front diff.

As a RWD car I'd have some trouble getting pace into it for the first couple of laps but once it was settled in there was virtually no difference in the cars pace If you drove it like a RWD and were patient on the throttle.

I have that chassis pretty sorted and alot of work had gone into it.

I can't see why if you removed the front sump, transfer case, attessa pumps/resivour, front drive shafts, prop shaft etc that exact car would not be quicker.

Straight line speed would increase, braking ability would increase( not that it needs to be any better) acceleration would actually increase (providing it's driven accordingly and set up correctly)

My guess would be with joe blow behind the wheel the car would be slower, someone experienced who can steer well would be faster, harder to drive 100% but faster.

Edited by Risking

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...