Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

do you think whitelines are better than king springs. i'm not really fussed about the height, but rather the stiffness. i find the back to lean alot. and i hate the way it snaps back so violently when recovering from a slide, scares the crap out of me.

That's not springs, stabiliser bars and decent shocks are the propper cure.

Everybody seems to agree that Koni sport are a good shock, and Bilsteins work well on Skylines...

The Bilsteins on my car were removed last week for a quick once over, they had been on the car for over 2.5 years, and about 70,000kms and they are still in good condition. That included about 3-4 most recent track days where it was too low and was smashing the bump stops to pieces without damaging the shock, so they are pretty durable.

I havent spoken to too many suspension places , or informed ppl that recomend Tein, Cusco, HKS, Apexi etc etc....

i got my shocks inspected by traction tyre in Rowville. They said that the gas in one of the shocks has leaked, preventing the shock from lifting at the same rate as the other one. Is this a big problem?? Is it going to adversely affect the car?? Should i get them rebuild, and how mcuh does it cost?? I heard that motorbike joints do it much cheaper.

any more help would be great.

Chef: I am guessing here, but if the shock isn't lifting at the same rate I imagine it will make the car unstable. Probably not a major concern at reasonably low speeds -- depending on the rate of the leak -- but I wouldn't go hitting a track any time soon.

I'm sure one of the experts can better answer this though...

LW.

If the shocks are stroking at different rates then i wouldnt be expecting too much from them.

But i suppose it comes back to what do you want from the car. If you want it to work 100% well into the future, then i think you have to start calling some places for rebuild prices. What were the springs like, you may be able to get some Koni Sport adjustables for about $400-450 ( thats all my mate paid for his 200SX)

i don't really want it for track. You think they are worth rebuilding?? or should i try to return them?? i got screwed. haven't got the prings checked yet, so idon't know. Are they going to be useless on my car?? I'll call a couple of places tommorow for prices of rebuilds....

:D

Chef,

I would think it would be worth your while to get in touch with someone and have them take a look at the car and see what it is really like. You sound like you have a few possible problems here. Taking the car for a quick run with someone who truly knows what they are doing will be a big help. I am in Melbourne and know people who can help if you want.

Mick.

Mick. i just bought the shocks recently and have not yet put them in. I got them checked (quick inspection) and found that the rod lifts much slower on one of them, the reason for this is that the shock is out of gas. There were no leaks from either of them. I want know i can get that shock regasses, and how much it would cost. i'm on a tight budget ( got very little on me), thats why i bought them second hand.

If you know anyone who is able to regas them, or can rebuild them cheap. It would be great. Any help would be much appreciated.

thanks

In Melbourne, Centreline Suspension

couldnt agree more SK.

Since i got my car back from Chirs and the boys @ Centreline, there has been not one problem with my car. And he's worked on a few other SAU members here in Vic too.

Great service, and he was darn cheap too IMO. I was shocked when he told me the final price. Expected it to be much more.

Chef definately take you car there. They are on Lipton Drive in Thomastown.

Chances are you'll see my car there as it gets dropped off tomorrow and will be there for the best part of a week... if you choose to go there that is.

mmm.. new rear sub-frame bushes... and a new diff mount/bush thingy.

Both are shagged to the max... the diff one isnt even there anymore lol!

I already got the good suspension on the car, just needed the bushes replaced in the rear.

And a decent alignment for a change.

What kind of price did they quote you and what did you get??

couldnt agree more SK.

Since i got my car back from Chirs and the boys @ Centreline, there has been not one problem with my car. And he's worked on a few other SAU members here in Vic too.

Great service, and he was darn cheap too IMO. I was shocked when he told me the final price. Expected it to be much more.

Chef definately take you car there. They are on Lipton Drive in Thomastown.

Chances are you'll see my car there as it gets dropped off tomorrow and will be there for the best part of a week... if you choose to go there that is.

Mick, any help would be great. They are Apexi, damper adjustable shocks

i called centreline, they said that they don't know anyone who does rebuild for apexi shock. Should i be looking for a motorbike joint for it??? I'll try to take the shocks to thomastown tomorrow for them to take a look.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...