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What Radiator To Get To Replace Oem?

R32Abuser

By R32Abuser,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
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Hi all,

Long story short I have a coolant leak from my OEM cooling setup.

Turned out to be one of the end tanks leaking - where from I dont know at this time - could be end tank cracked (worst case) or could be just that the seal is gone. Will know more later.

My question is:

What is an advisable replacement item for my OEM setup which will achieve the following

  • Provide a higher level of cooling than the OEM setup
  • Look as OEM as possible (I dont mind going to a full Aluminium setup- just keeping it looking OEM is preferable)
  • Price can't be outrageous
  • Be able to cope with 35 deg / 40 deg days in SA in traffic ( I understand that this has more to do with the fan setup than anything else)
  • Fit must suit OEM cooling setup i.e. OEM clutch fan etc.

Cheers,

David

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R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

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Not having massive cooling issues atm in normal weather upto about 27 odd degrees. After that the "Hot Fan" at the front of the car switches on.

All of this being said, I dont want to replace the std radiator with something that will only EQUAL the cooling capacity of the stock setup.

Considering the car is making probably twice the amount of power than the original motor made in that car; the cooling is probably a little underdone if anything.

R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

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1 such person here. A koyo radiator nor resides where my cooling pro used to be (lasted just over a year I think)

Yeh I was looking at getting a Koyo, but they are decently expensive compared to some of the other options on the market.

However, a wise man once said, you get what you pay for - and here is no different IMO. Heard a few bad stories about the 52mm thick after market items and them being no better than the OEM setup.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I have had a triple core China spec alloy radiator in my car for something like 5 years now. Much more cooling ability than the std radiator. So much so that I had to replace the thermostat imediately after I did the radiator, because the old thermostat must have been stuck open, which was working alright on the original rad, but made the engine run totally cold and use 100% more petrol on the new radiator. Fits well, never given me a moment's grief. Would not put an original plastic tanked radiator into the car in the face of that.

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

Yeh I was looking at getting a Koyo, but they are decently expensive compared to some of the other options on the market.

However, a wise man once said, you get what you pay for - and here is no different IMO. Heard a few bad stories about the 52mm thick after market items and them being no better than the OEM setup.

$220 delivered for mine, I think its a little thicker than what the stock one was but otherwise exactly the same as stock

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Thermo fans are shit!

can't believe you said that

I could...

Anyway stick with the stock clutch fan/shroud set-up.

And do NOT buy a $300 radiator of ebay. If you want it to do the job properly you'll be spending upwards of $500 for a double/triple pass item. Most will still retain factory mount/shroud & fan without a problem.

R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

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Agreed I do not want a ebay POS

However, any recommendations on specific brands?

PWR make an awesome 3 pass I hear, however the price is a little out of what I want to spend and overkill to boot.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Agreed I do not want a ebay POS

However, any recommendations on specific brands?

PWR make an awesome 3 pass I hear, however the price is a little out of what I want to spend and overkill to boot.

Ye the PWR one is north of 800 IIRC.

Race Radiators in Melb make one, I've got one in my GTS-R. Works very well.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Eeeeerrrrrr .....no....

In traffic, at the lights, yes you will. They spin and push more air than the clutch fan at idle. Some cars will rise in temp at the lights. If you had the fan spinning faster it will cool the car, at idle, in traffic. My op was about this situation, not driving.

get an electric water pump, you will gain power by freeing up the engine from spinning one more pully.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Oh and in my GTR - on a 26 degree day, 5 laps flat chat of the Thunderdome (so around 5:30 @ full noise), hottest I saw was 95 degrees using a triple pass core.

Oil temp was certainly getting up there however, but that is unavoidable.

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