Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Because mine won't hold the timing. The stock ECU keeps freaking out, pulling timing on random occasions. I have a very random misfire at ~5000rpm which is when the ECU decides to pull timing. .

Are u serious? This happened to me on a

25 with rb20 ecu last week. Everytime in the dyno at 5k if pulls around 10 degree's if timing which causes a missfire on the dyno.

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh, mine is completely random though, doesn't do it every time. I thought it had 'fixed' itself when it didn't happen for a few months, then out of nowhere it does it again. Same story on the dyno when it was tuned, it made it very difficult for my tuner to work with.

That last bit I dont fully understand

20deg of ingition timing on one ECU is the same as 20deg on any other ECU right?

so I dont see how one can make more power than another

Because not all of them have the same timing control. When you have course mapping it kinda averages out, with fine mapping you can adjust for all changes and get a much more accurate power curve.

But then you've got the inherent problems with the Nissan CAS that most people don't see. Once you fix those and have a more accurate timing curve, the engine naturally makes more power reliably and stays away from that area of detonation

So is there a solution to this, like after market cas?

Yep.

Search 'new RB parts with results'.

It's a write up of what the solution is and performed on my own car. It's not the ONLY option but it's off the shelf.

Because mine won't hold the timing. The stock ECU keeps freaking out, pulling timing on random occasions. I have a very random misfire at ~5000rpm which is when the ECU decides to pull timing. The ViPEC wouldn't do it.

Now I've got this whole corrupt ECU thing... I dunno. Too many problems. I haven't managed a single tune yet, in the 2 years my car has been turbocharged, that I haven't had an ECU related problem.

sounds weird the r34 ecus are the most stable platforms, have you got some logs to send to pete and matt? in 5years of nistune ive never encountered that issue. Im not saying there isnt an issue in this case but i reckon its traceable. have all the knock flags and feedback been switched off? has the rpm vs ign curve been checked against a stock definition? feel free to send the ecu over and i will check it over as i have a crazy nistuned r34 in the shop atm (350rwkw auto)

i have found on E85 thought the nistune for some R34's does not have enough adjustable parameters above about 350rwkw with 1000cc injectors and big plenum etc.. accel pump gets a bit steppy and cold start etc becomes troublesome... not factory smooth and easy like it should be.

Other nistunes no worries i think 460rwkw is the highest weve done so far.

Yep.

Search 'new RB parts with results'.

It's a write up of what the solution is and performed on my own car. It's not the ONLY option but it's off the shelf.

I did a search and found you on a UK site.. ;)...they also mention a remanufactured CAS..Are these a good option also?.

At what point does this become an issue anyway, is it only an issue when running big power, or can it assist to help any tuned car to run better...

sounds weird the r34 ecus are the most stable platforms, have you got some logs to send to pete and matt? in 5years of nistune ive never encountered that issue. Im not saying there isnt an issue in this case but i reckon its traceable. have all the knock flags and feedback been switched off? has the rpm vs ign curve been checked against a stock definition? feel free to send the ecu over and i will check it over as i have a crazy nistuned r34 in the shop atm (350rwkw auto)

i have found on E85 thought the nistune for some R34's does not have enough adjustable parameters above about 350rwkw with 1000cc injectors and big plenum etc.. accel pump gets a bit steppy and cold start etc becomes troublesome... not factory smooth and easy like it should be.

Other nistunes no worries i think 460rwkw is the highest weve done so far.

Well the most likely reason for it is the TCS, or lack of it. As I transplanted this engine into a GT shell, at the time I decided to scrap the traction control as it was going to be a bitch to wire up and I had no use for it. Had been planning on going forward facing anyway, so I would have just had to delete it again anyway.

I wasn't aware at the time that it would cause so much trouble with DTC's. Even with the feedback switched off, the ECU would still pull timing. So after talking with Matt and Pete, I sent the ECU to Matt and he bench tested it and reprogrammed it with a SII Stagea image to get rid of the DTC's. Since then I haven't had it back on the dyno so I never 100% confirmed that this had been the issue, but it didn't once misfire since being reprogrammed, so I think that did sort it out. Then I decided that if I needed to get it back on the dyno anyway, I may as well upgrade to ID1000's and put on the Plazmaman plenum beforehand. And that brings us to now, with an ECU that no longer works :(

Edited by Hanaldo

I did a search and found you on a UK site.. ;)...they also mention a remanufactured CAS..Are these a good option also?.

At what point does this become an issue anyway, is it only an issue when running big power, or can it assist to help any tuned car to run better...

Search that in the forced induction section on SAU.

Some very informative posts that will explain all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...