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Tape really,

Urethane is the fix,

http://www.crcind.co...thane-seal-coat

done this on some coil pack on my car done some 100,000 k`s now & stil sweet as .

i also run fibre washers under base to try to stop heat going straight in them.

post-36964-0-81091800-1322096854_thumb.jpg

post-36964-0-43763700-1322097056_thumb.jpg

post-36964-0-51932800-1322098573_thumb.jpg,

iam going to put a write up & post it,

this is $20 fix if you buy a Larger can of URETHANE SEAL COAT.

Cheers Chuckie.

Might want to look at the pdf file attached to the link for the urethane seal coat - look at its FLAMMABILITY. Last thing you would want is to end up in a hospital bed when that thing explodes in the hot engine due to sparks /heat /air and possibly blows up your car..??:wacko:

post-49401-0-57712100-1322112640_thumb.jpg

Might want to look at the pdf file attached to the link for the urethane seal coat - look at its FLAMMABILITY. Last thing you would want is to end up in a hospital bed when that thing explodes in the hot engine due to sparks /heat /air and possibly blows up your car..??:wacko:

lol :ban:

heres an idea, get some new coils :) unless the tape can fix a broken winding inside the coil.. you would be better off taping the plug off and covering the coil in epoxy.

The idea of taping coilpacks is hoping it will solve your missfire issue due to a cracked coil boot or two. If it dosent, then so what, you only spent $10, so next step go n get new coilpacks. Why spend hundreds on new coilpacks as an initial fix when you DONT KNOW if that is the issue in the first place?? Not very clever is it, unless you like handing cash over....in that case I will PM u my bank number.. To sum it up, try all the cheap somewhat proven remedies first, if those dont work, then obviously the issue is something different, so then u go and replace the part if u have to..:nyaanyaa:

fair enough, each to there own. i just think using tape is abit dodgy, atleast use some heat shrink on the boots..

personaly if i get a car with a ignition issue, the first thing i do is gap the plugs after inspecting them for cracks. and no i will not "tape" a cracked spark plug lol. if that fails, swap them around. still no good. replace coils. that is the correct method.

not that you cant try using tape, but when a customer is paying for your time to isolate a coil issue, i will not put "taped coils" on the jobcard. it will be coil ## is in need of replacement. and from the look of it ypou have a r34gtt, wich is renound for killing coils, inbuilt igniter ones. and when they die the car goes into limp mode. because the ecu detects a issue on the LOW voltage side. which tape will NOT FIX.

try the tape if that works for you. but more often than not its the igniter side of things in the coil that is the issue.

cheers.

Oh thanks for info pinch.gif ,

i may try few more on then see if that helps :thumbsup: ,

heat transfer`s regardlees that was just too see if it helped as coil pack sitting on head hurts more,

i looking at Heatshrink too see what happens with that,:thumbsup:

you might want to inspects your coilpack harness and swap the ignitor chip to a better design model like a 300zx z32.

Gap sizes yes you should run lower gap sizes until it is completely gone(missfire)

To be able to run bigger gaps you will need some form of cdi or ignition booster.

Tape does work

Look for micro cracks on the coilpacks plastic housing.Specially on the lower side were it connects to the rubber boots.

How about a condom on each coil secured with rubber band? Well i've taped the coilpacks in and taken it for a 2 min drive on our side street seeing as im suspended, drives normal under boost, but cant realy test the car with a 2 min drive lol

I just know what works

I run splitfire , b&m ignition booster cdi ,z32 igniton chip,ngk bkr8eix front/bkr9eix rear and Hks fcon vpro.

Yes my splitfires has tape on them just for added safety.

Been running 500 torque for 3yrs on nothing but 93 octane pump gas

I use larger spark plug gaps due to the cdi

Gap to 30

Tape or whatever it all does the same

Insulation

They don't make them no more.

B&M made them for xsengineering

Power pack

Sadly B&M doesn't make them anymore.

So no more ignition booster nor power pack.

You can still get Hks dli and okada project plasma booster.

Best price is okada.

But this is for high hp applications.

The z32 has a better design the the oem ignition booster.

There was complains about this ignition boosters lowering the oem coilpacks.

It's all rumors.

Nothing has been proven nor I have I had issues.

Miss information more likely to be found in forums.

At the end it's your call.

As everyone else has said get new coil packs - anything else is just an exercise in turd polishing!

Do not get the cheap coilpacks (hello JJR!) as they are a waste of money - get Split fires or OEM (currently going cheap on SAU forums!)

My tuner explained to me (after replacing my <2 year old JJR coil packs with Split fires) that the "popping" that you get every now and again (usually heat related i.e. when the coil packs get hot they don't work as well) can be worse for the engine than detonation!

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