Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tape really,

Urethane is the fix,

http://www.crcind.co...thane-seal-coat

done this on some coil pack on my car done some 100,000 k`s now & stil sweet as .

i also run fibre washers under base to try to stop heat going straight in them.

post-36964-0-81091800-1322096854_thumb.jpg

post-36964-0-43763700-1322097056_thumb.jpg

post-36964-0-51932800-1322098573_thumb.jpg,

iam going to put a write up & post it,

this is $20 fix if you buy a Larger can of URETHANE SEAL COAT.

Cheers Chuckie.

Might want to look at the pdf file attached to the link for the urethane seal coat - look at its FLAMMABILITY. Last thing you would want is to end up in a hospital bed when that thing explodes in the hot engine due to sparks /heat /air and possibly blows up your car..??:wacko:

post-49401-0-57712100-1322112640_thumb.jpg

Might want to look at the pdf file attached to the link for the urethane seal coat - look at its FLAMMABILITY. Last thing you would want is to end up in a hospital bed when that thing explodes in the hot engine due to sparks /heat /air and possibly blows up your car..??:wacko:

lol :ban:

heres an idea, get some new coils :) unless the tape can fix a broken winding inside the coil.. you would be better off taping the plug off and covering the coil in epoxy.

The idea of taping coilpacks is hoping it will solve your missfire issue due to a cracked coil boot or two. If it dosent, then so what, you only spent $10, so next step go n get new coilpacks. Why spend hundreds on new coilpacks as an initial fix when you DONT KNOW if that is the issue in the first place?? Not very clever is it, unless you like handing cash over....in that case I will PM u my bank number.. To sum it up, try all the cheap somewhat proven remedies first, if those dont work, then obviously the issue is something different, so then u go and replace the part if u have to..:nyaanyaa:

fair enough, each to there own. i just think using tape is abit dodgy, atleast use some heat shrink on the boots..

personaly if i get a car with a ignition issue, the first thing i do is gap the plugs after inspecting them for cracks. and no i will not "tape" a cracked spark plug lol. if that fails, swap them around. still no good. replace coils. that is the correct method.

not that you cant try using tape, but when a customer is paying for your time to isolate a coil issue, i will not put "taped coils" on the jobcard. it will be coil ## is in need of replacement. and from the look of it ypou have a r34gtt, wich is renound for killing coils, inbuilt igniter ones. and when they die the car goes into limp mode. because the ecu detects a issue on the LOW voltage side. which tape will NOT FIX.

try the tape if that works for you. but more often than not its the igniter side of things in the coil that is the issue.

cheers.

Oh thanks for info pinch.gif ,

i may try few more on then see if that helps :thumbsup: ,

heat transfer`s regardlees that was just too see if it helped as coil pack sitting on head hurts more,

i looking at Heatshrink too see what happens with that,:thumbsup:

you might want to inspects your coilpack harness and swap the ignitor chip to a better design model like a 300zx z32.

Gap sizes yes you should run lower gap sizes until it is completely gone(missfire)

To be able to run bigger gaps you will need some form of cdi or ignition booster.

Tape does work

Look for micro cracks on the coilpacks plastic housing.Specially on the lower side were it connects to the rubber boots.

How about a condom on each coil secured with rubber band? Well i've taped the coilpacks in and taken it for a 2 min drive on our side street seeing as im suspended, drives normal under boost, but cant realy test the car with a 2 min drive lol

I just know what works

I run splitfire , b&m ignition booster cdi ,z32 igniton chip,ngk bkr8eix front/bkr9eix rear and Hks fcon vpro.

Yes my splitfires has tape on them just for added safety.

Been running 500 torque for 3yrs on nothing but 93 octane pump gas

I use larger spark plug gaps due to the cdi

Gap to 30

Tape or whatever it all does the same

Insulation

They don't make them no more.

B&M made them for xsengineering

Power pack

Sadly B&M doesn't make them anymore.

So no more ignition booster nor power pack.

You can still get Hks dli and okada project plasma booster.

Best price is okada.

But this is for high hp applications.

The z32 has a better design the the oem ignition booster.

There was complains about this ignition boosters lowering the oem coilpacks.

It's all rumors.

Nothing has been proven nor I have I had issues.

Miss information more likely to be found in forums.

At the end it's your call.

As everyone else has said get new coil packs - anything else is just an exercise in turd polishing!

Do not get the cheap coilpacks (hello JJR!) as they are a waste of money - get Split fires or OEM (currently going cheap on SAU forums!)

My tuner explained to me (after replacing my <2 year old JJR coil packs with Split fires) that the "popping" that you get every now and again (usually heat related i.e. when the coil packs get hot they don't work as well) can be worse for the engine than detonation!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...