Jump to content
SAU Community

Fs: Cruise Controls For M35 & V35 - Diy Install

Commsman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah man I understand. Can I buy the parts seperate or any you getting through somewhere special that the public can't buy from?

Cheers Gav.

Hi Gav, the cruise units are bought from the manufacturer but via a buyer in another country where the market isn't stitched up. If the factory gets wind of them coming down under, then I don't get any product & I lose my money :O . They place loyalty to their dealer network very highly. That's all fine, except to have the Aust distributor sell/install one costs up to $1000 (depending where you are). And that doesn't include the steering wheel controls, which really make this kit IMO.

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Commsman
Commsman

Lost my contact due to a computer crash a while ago, but I'm getting somewhere finally. Should have more news after my new buyer emails back to confirm prices. Thanks for your patience.

Serious
Serious

Looking for cruise control for V35 Skyline Coupe

Daleo
Daleo

It a massive shame my sister is now back in Aus after several years in Shanghai & Hong Kong... I could possibly see if something can be done.

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi all those who have expressed interest in a cruise control recently. Stag123 (above) wanting 2 has put the number into the realm of possibility.

I'll message everyone in due course to confirm details & will post updates as they come to hand.

I've started the process by emailing my supplier tonight.

Cheers

Leon.

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Leon, if this kit includes everything needed (steering buttons, stalk and cruize control unit) for $490 I am definitely in for 1 kit.

Cheers,

bebetaz

The kit does include everything (both stalk & steering buttons etc) but unfortunately won't be $490 this time.

There is a lot of extra work for me in making the wiring harness, providing help/advice for installs & (not least of all) a fair bit of risk in ordering & paying for these (see earlier post) that I believe earns me the right to make a little money this time.

The price won't be set until I know what they will cost me landed on Oz but, given the exchange rate is still pretty good, I anticipate it will be less than $600 delivered. That is still excellent value IMO (especially if you DIY), given the quality of the CC (fully customisable) & with the backlit buttons. But if that puts it out of reach for anyone, please feel free to let me know.

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

The kit does include everything (both stalk & steering buttons etc) but unfortunately won't be $490 this time.

There is a lot of extra work for me in making the wiring harness, providing help/advice for installs & (not least of all) a fair bit of risk in ordering & paying for these (see earlier post) that I believe earns me the right to make a little money this time.

The price won't be set until I know what they will cost me landed on Oz but, given the exchange rate is still pretty good, I anticipate it will be less than $600 delivered. That is still excellent value IMO (especially if you DIY), given the quality of the CC (fully customisable) & with the backlit buttons. But if that puts it out of reach for anyone, please feel free to let me know.

Too right Leon; no one expects you to be a charity, well & truly entitled to something for all your hard work, and after sales assistance.

To anyone thinking of doing this; it is a purchase that pays you back every time you drive. It is a beautifully integrated system, and Leons backup is second to none.

Leon spent loads of time walking me through the install & setup of my kit, and made the whole job so much simpler, I can't recommend him highly enough.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...