Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah man I understand. Can I buy the parts seperate or any you getting through somewhere special that the public can't buy from?

Cheers Gav.

Hi Gav, the cruise units are bought from the manufacturer but via a buyer in another country where the market isn't stitched up. If the factory gets wind of them coming down under, then I don't get any product & I lose my money :O . They place loyalty to their dealer network very highly. That's all fine, except to have the Aust distributor sell/install one costs up to $1000 (depending where you are). And that doesn't include the steering wheel controls, which really make this kit IMO.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi all those who have expressed interest in a cruise control recently. Stag123 (above) wanting 2 has put the number into the realm of possibility.

I'll message everyone in due course to confirm details & will post updates as they come to hand.

I've started the process by emailing my supplier tonight.

Cheers

Leon.

Hi Leon, if this kit includes everything needed (steering buttons, stalk and cruize control unit) for $490 I am definitely in for 1 kit.

Cheers,

bebetaz

The kit does include everything (both stalk & steering buttons etc) but unfortunately won't be $490 this time.

There is a lot of extra work for me in making the wiring harness, providing help/advice for installs & (not least of all) a fair bit of risk in ordering & paying for these (see earlier post) that I believe earns me the right to make a little money this time.

The price won't be set until I know what they will cost me landed on Oz but, given the exchange rate is still pretty good, I anticipate it will be less than $600 delivered. That is still excellent value IMO (especially if you DIY), given the quality of the CC (fully customisable) & with the backlit buttons. But if that puts it out of reach for anyone, please feel free to let me know.

The kit does include everything (both stalk & steering buttons etc) but unfortunately won't be $490 this time.

There is a lot of extra work for me in making the wiring harness, providing help/advice for installs & (not least of all) a fair bit of risk in ordering & paying for these (see earlier post) that I believe earns me the right to make a little money this time.

The price won't be set until I know what they will cost me landed on Oz but, given the exchange rate is still pretty good, I anticipate it will be less than $600 delivered. That is still excellent value IMO (especially if you DIY), given the quality of the CC (fully customisable) & with the backlit buttons. But if that puts it out of reach for anyone, please feel free to let me know.

Too right Leon; no one expects you to be a charity, well & truly entitled to something for all your hard work, and after sales assistance.

To anyone thinking of doing this; it is a purchase that pays you back every time you drive. It is a beautifully integrated system, and Leons backup is second to none.

Leon spent loads of time walking me through the install & setup of my kit, and made the whole job so much simpler, I can't recommend him highly enough.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...