Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

SuperLap has and always will be an event designed for workshop cars.

^^^ And there you have it ;)

However, if you're one of the lucky ones who seem to have an excess of CASHHHHHHH then I say have a crack at it. But go in with your eyes open and have realistic goals.

Good luck to anyone who enters knowing what they are getting in for, they are providing a great spectacle for the crowd. But for mortals on a normal budget, why spend ...

Its a fair point. I was ready to enter this year and didnt care where I finished. I just wanted to give my car a punt and would be interesting to see where I cam against other rwd 2l road cars on semis. You pool together your own competition :) The reason I didnt do it as entry, tryes, brakes and travel meant that I could go hire a car and drive Zandvoort using FF points cheaper :) My point is for the money to just enter and try and get the most out of your setup its going to cost the same as a pretty cool 3-4wk OS holiday :(

I could very well be wrong..but think about it...no way the Cyber Evo weighs 800kgs. NO WAY! But your point is correct..you can get away with cars that have good OE brakes for a lot longer when you are ripping weight out of them.

I will just repeat, I will masturbate with a cheese grater in public on film if the Cyber Evo weights 800kgs :) If it weighs > +/-35kgs of 1000kgs they have done an amazing job

Best not to listen to a word I say...BUT...there is plenty of reasons why without significant improvements in downforce you wont achieve shorther stopping distances on a std pressed steel mass manufactured car by going for bigger rotors (increase in braking force) and bigger calipers with more piston area (increase in braking force) and racey pads (increase in braking force)

I suspect you could know more then me about this stuff and its a baited question...so will try to explain my view.

In saloons like most of us punt, they weigh a lot, have good hp and have limited grip. Under brakes its all about tyres and how grippy they are and suspension: how good it is at controlling the pitch of the car under brakes and ride the bumps when the shocks are under compression.

You get braking force/torque from pad compounds, rotor diameter and piston area. All this works to help slow a car to the point that the tyres dont lock up. Tyre grip is again just friction so given a certain tyre grip, the only thing that is ever going to increase friction (ie grip under braking) is an increase in the normal load. You increase the normal load on a car/tyre with downforce. So the only way to increase the normal load on a tyre is to increase downforce which gives the tyre more grip. If the tyre has more grip than you can use additional braking force.

I agree that track cars need brake upgrades, but since Skylines have pretty good gear std, its mostly about thermal management and trying to avoid brake fade. NOT increasing braking capacity as it will just result in bitey brakes that lock up too easily.

You often increase thermal efficiency with better pads, fluid..then rotor diameter and pad surface area. By going to better pads you normally increase braking force...which is the reason why many AP/Alcon calipers that use 365mm rotors etc have less piston area then std Nissan gear. Because the assumption is they will run good pads with higher friction coefficient + bigger rotors which also gives increase in braking force...when it comes to the piston area they are smaller then std calipers. This is an attempt to stop waaaaay toooo much front brake bias, because std its all pretty good. Its all about stopping fade so they increase rotor diam, increase pad area and reduce the piston area to maintain essentially the std braking bias whilst adding loads of thermal capacity

LOL, probably makes no sense...I best read this again in the morning when I have not had two bottles of red, beers and watched The Thing (Both 1982 and 2011 :) )

No way is the Cyber Evo even close to 800kg, you are right in assuming approximately 1000kg.

And reading this thread it is crazy how misunderstood braking systems are, It's always funny to see people turn up with cars that are low weight or stockish in power, running 12 pot brembo's they bought off a Lamborghini "Superxyzasdnkllasdn" - I loled.

Agree that downforce needs speed to help. If you look at open wheelers and their brake pedal pressure trace on data you will see that when they first jump on the brakes they are trying to put their foot through the floor, as the speed washes off the tyre grip afforded to them drops off as the downforce drops off with speed so they drop the pedal pressure otherwise they will lock brakes. Saloon cars are the same but to a lesser extent as they only have downforce (normal load N) measured in the tens of kilograms rather than hundreds of kgs. (to go from weight to force you multiply by gravity - 9.81; so 10kgs is 98.1 Newtons)

Re ABS, I am not convinced if its a good thing or a bad thing. Personally I cant stop cars for shit and am always locking brakes and ruining tyres. I suspect late model cars with faster processors etc in their ABS would stop quicker using it....not sure where a GTR sits in stopping distances.

But yeh, the mechanics/dynamics of cars braking is pretty interesting. This is the theory behind what I am trying to say...

surfboard_wax_friction_defs.gif

And this is why braking will always be shorter if you dont lock brakes

frictiongraph.JPG

Essentially when a tyre is rolling there is no slip between the tyre surface and ground so is referred to as static friction. When a tyre locks then you have slip between the two surfaces so you have kinetic friction. As kinetic friction is lower then static friction then you will always have less grip with a tyre locked.

Thank you, Thank you I haven't seen that beautiful diagram for YEARS ! :thumbsup:

Its a fair point. I was ready to enter this year and didnt care where I finished. I just wanted to give my car a punt and would be interesting to see where I cam against other rwd 2l road cars on semis. You pool together your own competition :) The reason I didnt do it as entry, tryes, brakes and travel meant that I could go hire a car and drive Zandvoort using FF points cheaper :) My point is for the money to just enter and try and get the most out of your setup its going to cost the same as a pretty cool 3-4wk OS holiday :(

^ This ;)

But like I say, if you've an excess of cash.......

The entry list will always be packed, despite the dubious value or GFC. And aint that cool!?! :)

i think the last lap of ec i did was a 2 minute flat.... so yea i guess so (stock r31 gxe though)

still recon it would be apples

decent pads, correct master cylinder

maybe some brembos with some soft pads would be a winner (but they weigh a good 5kgs more a side)

one hot lap no faken dramas you only need to brake 7 times in a lap at ec and only 2 of those are real stops

decent race brakes your looking at 2 laps to bring up to temp with shit feel until then by which time your rubber is tost

save a spare 20kgs of rotating mass as well compared to your super dooper 8 piston alwesomness

perfect for super crap one lap machines

now a car running multiple laps different story

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...