Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On a 2.6 you definitely need the right setup/method to be responsive :)

Daz has the right ingredients and method heheh!

By the way Daz I wasn't trying to be a smart arse :) I had good results from GTX2860's with a stroker setup, stock cams and BP98, but went shit when I put in cams and got another tuner to tune the setup when I headed north...

love to see the dyno plot as there's nobody who has shown one yet for these turbos.
  • 2 weeks later...

Why so many questions on my set up RP are the sickest bro :)

I understand you made shit numbers and I'm guessing that's why you won't disclose your numbers?

We're all here to elevate performance of our cars in a collaborative n helpful way.

At least I thought that's what it was all about.

2 z32's been on the dyno in the last week. 1 with gtx2863's made 565.7rwkw @ 30psi (450+kw by 4500rpm). It actually mades 565kw at 5800rpm.

The other has gtx2867's. It made 770rwhp @ 32psi. Laggier tho as it had no vtc.

Edited by MagicMikeZ32
  • Like 2

2 z32's been on the dyno in the last week. 1 with gtx2863's made 565.7rwkw @ 30psi (450+kw by 4500rpm). It actually mades 565kw at 5800rpm.

The other has gtx2867's. It made 770rwhp @ 32psi. Laggier tho as it had no vtc.

that's mega, I noticed Z32s respond well to the gtx 63s. thanks for sharing too

The VG30+GTX2863 combo is purely mental. I imagine however that most people would have a mental breakdown or two getting everything right with the build to get those great numbers though. Was the GTX2863 car yours mike?

Why not share your results?

he made over 400wkw on a built 2.6L on 2863's, prolly won't share because he blew his engine up.

I just wanted to know how it ramped up compared to Simon's 2.8L with same 2863's.

I'll soon find out tho :)

Edited by mr skidz

The VG30+GTX2863 combo is purely mental. I imagine however that most people would have a mental breakdown or two getting everything right with the build to get those great numbers though. Was the GTX2863 car yours mike?

Nah not mine Pete, one in Syd and one in Perth. The one in Syd has had a few hicups such as 2 snapped cams.

I am still on 98 but that will change soon. inb4e85cheat

j8dro8.jpg

Edited by MagicMikeZ32
  • Like 3

I'm sure it varies, the tighter the tolerance the better it will work, but too tight and it may rub once the bearing tolerance gets loose.

I would say .4mm would be ballpark. Hopefully someone with BB turbo machining experience pops up as I suspect you can go with less clearance with a BB core.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...