Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

gtx2860's would be perfect on my 2.8 on E85 i reckon!

just gotta find someone to do the -5 .60 a/r comp cover sleeve job, any suggestions?

who's trustworthy enough not f@#k it up!

Edited by mr skidz

gtx2860's would be perfect on my 2.8 on E85 i reckon!

just gotta find someone to do the -5 .60 a/r comp cover sleeve job, any suggestions?

who's trustworthy enough not f@#k it up!

Is it not worth just going with the 63 instead so you don't need a sleeve?

On compressor map there is a difference but I think it would be negligible on road.

I reckon the 60mm Billet would be worth every bit the hassle and hit say 600 horse at the wheels faster than a 63 would and I'm not sure I want any more than that I would rather max a 60 mil wheel out rather than have a 63 and push it 70%.

Most importantly I'm after longevity reliability

  • Like 2

63mm comp wheel really would be better off with a 61 to 63mm turbine wheel to match.

Garrett should get their act together and make one up.

how hard is it

slight mismatch atm

Edited by mr skidz

The idea of using the smaller standard GT-R comp housing with the billet 60 mm wheel which is easier to do.

I imagine the response there would be pretty awesome just not sure about how efficient it would be at 25 + psi I would imagine the heat would be a major side effect but I so would like to try that just for shits and giggles.

They do a "GTX 2967". Slightly larger rear wheel but not with the GTX 63 mm front wheel.

Close :\.

I did notice they made that rear wheel option but apparently the shaft is a different size and will not fit the smaller front wheel which has got me stuffed y? that would be the tits I reckon.

You would loose the response then wouldn't you?

well... I think the initial pick up/ spool time will be slower maybe 100-300rpm but billet wheel may now cancel this out being lighter or maybe not as it grabs a bigger handful of air every times it spins which requires more torque/force from the exhaust wheel.

BUT once the slightly bigger turbine wheel starts building boost, that bigger diameter wheel has much more leverage force which in turn gives that compressor a larger more rapid shove to reach its intended rpms for better on boost response.

There's less restriction with bigger turbines as they are better at expelling the wasted exhaust gases without choking up the exhaust side just like a small exhaust system would slow down your compressors ability to ramp up FAST.

which affects RESPONSE.

Thats why -7s -9s -5s are so popular and gt2871 or -10s are not.

I had a 2871 it was good for outright power but choked itself to death after 1.4bar and that was a .86 rear housing too!

hope you can understand why sometimes slightly bigger exh wheels not too big!

can work in our favour

sorry if I rambled a bit too much tired from work.

  • Like 1

well... I think the initial pick up/ spool time will be slower maybe 100-300rpm but billet wheel may now cancel this out being lighter or maybe not as it grabs a bigger handful of air every times it spins which requires more torque/force from the exhaust wheel.

BUT once the slightly bigger turbine wheel starts building boost, that bigger diameter wheel has much more leverage force which in turn gives that compressor a larger more rapid shove to reach its intended rpms for better on boost response.

There's less restriction with bigger turbines as they are better at expelling the wasted exhaust gases without choking up the exhaust side just like a small exhaust system would slow down your compressors ability to ramp up FAST.

which affects RESPONSE.

Thats why -7s -9s -5s are so popular and gt2871 or -10s are not.

I had a 2871 it was good for outright power but choked itself to death after 1.4bar and that was a .86 rear housing too!

hope you can understand why sometimes slightly bigger exh wheels not too big!

can work in our favour

sorry if I rambled a bit too much tired from work.

Is this why you get more transient response in between gear changes, in that the larger wheel has more momentum? I remember vaguely a discussion that implied that even though a turbo with a larger exhaust wheel is laggier to build up boost is less prone to falling off boost on gear changes.

I think any amount of turbine momentum even if it's a small amount it's got to be good..

but I do think it's probably more to do with a big compressor trying to turn hard and fast which it can't do because it doesn't have "enough" help from a smaller turbine wheel there's just not enough torque applied.

In relation to keeping the momentum of the turbo up between gear changes all I would say is run a very well return style blow off valve and aim the return/discharge port directly into the compressors intake path.

So what housings and other parts exactly are being used to make up these theoretical GTX2860 turbo's?
Probably wanting to put a set on my car later on in the year so will need to know what to ask for when i go to get them made up.

read meatheads posts in this thread he's the only one who has done it so far that I have read.

the whole notion that gtx cartridge can fit dash 5 housings was brought to my attention by pigaz.

after gcg told me personally that it was just not possible.

Edited by mr skidz

read meatheads posts in this thread he's the only one who has done it so far that I have read.

the whole notion that gtx cartridge can fit dash 5 housings was brought to my attention by pigaz.

after gcg told me personally that it was just not possible.

Same thing they told me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...