Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Where are you guys sourcing turbo fittings from, the local Enzed what rediculous dollars for what seem to be basic fittings.

I need a 4AN to 14mm banjo and a 4AN to 14mm straight through.

Are there any cheap places online besides eBay?

Edited by ActionDan

I should clarify, i don't mean Clints Crazy Bargains fittings, i just mean an alternate source to Pirtek/Enzed locally who seem to want to charge a bunch.

All I'm doing is a fitting a bigger turbo a track based S13 with a CA in it, it's budget racing :D

I got some -AN adapters from G J Drivelines, good price easy transaction via email, tell him what you need and he'll help you out...

cheapest price I found on earl's adapters too...

http://gjdrivelines.com.au/Earls.html

I bought my teflon lines and fittings from TORQUES an ebay seller in the UK, very good prices and better quality than the Proflow gear I bought locally. No issues with them so far after 6 odd months running eflex.

go to any decent industrial hydraulics supplier. (yellow pages is your friend) forget calling them AN as they will look at you with a blank look. tell them you want JIC fittings like every 1 else does except car part suppliers.

I use all Eaton (which is the industrial brand of Aeroquip) fittings on my car there cheaper & heavier duty, but they don't come in pretty colours.

If using a Garrett small frame BB turbo re use the banjos from the std T25 based turbo . Most of the hydraulics suppliers sell -4 AN weld on fittings , you drill them to suit the std shortened steel banjo tube and braze them on . Simple and looks factory because the banjos are . You'll find they are the most compact too and compact is good with turbo fittings .

A .

  • 1 month later...

I just came across SpeedflowDirect. They have by far the best prices I've come across for Speedflow gear (unfortunately I recently purchased my items :rant: ). I just received an email from Andy there they are located in Adelaide but freight won't be much for fittings and a bit of hose. They guys name is Andy.

If anyone is in Melbourne, MSCN have 'opened' up a store which is now part of Meridian Motorsport in the same location in Moorabbin/Cheltenham.

I missed out on the good pricing but hopefully this might help someone else :)

As urtwhistle mentioned, for simple Metric to AN adaptors, ie for RB block water fittings, you could try hydraulic distributors, ie Hardy Spicer, Hydraulink, Soutcott, Enzed & Pirtek etc. They will refer to them as Metric to JIC fittings. AN is only really used in the Auto industry as far as I can tell.

While I'm at it I figured I'd add the items I was getting for my GT-RS (GT2871R) turbo water lines..

WATER HOSE

-6 HOSE (200 Series, TEFLON) [200-06]

For 1 Turbo end..

14.5mm BANJO to -6AN [720-06]

BANJO BOLT (M14 x 1.5) [725-06]

-6 HOSE to -6AN 45 DEG (200 Series) [202-06-D]

For other Turbo end..

14.5mm BANJO to -6AN [720-06]

BANJO BOLT (M14 x 1.5) [725-06]

-6 HOSE to -6AN Straight (200 Series) [201-06-D]

For Block water outlet.

M14 x 1.5 to -6AN metric adaptor [732-06]

-6 HOSE to -6AN 90 DEG (200 Series) [203-06-D] - For Block end

I didn't get the Oil fittings (came with turbo) but below looks to be what is required.

OIL HOSE

-4 HOSE (200 Series, TEFLON) [200-04]

Block end - Oil outlet.

M12 x 1.25 to -4AN [358-04], possibly [730-04]

-4 HOSE to -4AN Straight (200 Series) [201-04-D or 201-04]

Turbo End

7/16" Eye Banjo to -4AN [311-04]

7/16" Banjo Bolt [300-04]

-4 HOSE to -4AN 90 deg (200 Series) [203-04-D or 203-04]

You may want to use slightly different combos depending on what your setup is so that is definitely not a one size fits all but should give a bit of an idea as to what sizes are required. I found it hard to find all this info in one place. I am going to use the exisitng oil drain parts but you could use a Turbocharger adaptor with some -10AN hose and fittings.

You can also do this cheaper with the SS hose with rubber lining but I went the teflon lined hose for added protection. I'm going even further and getting some black Insultherm sleeving from Thermo-Tec to further protect things.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...