Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and pods are so cool arnt they.... hiflow panel filter in the stock airbox vs pod filter in a stock like airbox... where's the difference?

its all for looks or induction sound isnt it... no real performance upgrade.

I love how people say ' I put a pod on and gained 4kw' its because your stock air filter was old and dirty.

the upgrade was buying a clean one.

I use and ARC airbox, but I admit it was for looks, not for performance gains, but I have a bonnet vent that directly feeds it too....

and pods are so cool arnt they.... hiflow panel filter in the stock airbox vs pod filter in a stock like airbox... where's the difference?

its all for looks or induction sound isnt it... no real performance upgrade.

I love how people say ' I put a pod on and gained 4kw' its because your stock air filter was old and dirty.

the upgrade was buying a clean one.

I use and ARC airbox, but I admit it was for looks, not for performance gains, but I have a bonnet vent that directly feeds it too....

Yep completely agree.. which is why I never mentioned power gains as my reason for doing this.. I simply want the induction noise without the draw backs of having an unshielded pod.. :)

I am playing around with a pod in box idea myself.. I'm trying to use the standard box though.. I know you say that there is stuff all difference between a Pod and Panel filter.. however have you looked at the difference between the surface areas of the 2? I have a pod here, just 120mm diam x ~140mm long.. if you roll this across the panel filter it is about 1.5 times the length for a similar width. I'm all for trying to make things breath as easily as possible. It is also something to try. I'm not sure if the pipe bends I'm thinking of using to get the pod to fit will negate the slightly improved flow?

What are the actual dimensions of the Apexi pod? I couldn't seem to find any dimensions which included top diam, bottom diam and length.

If you're making up your own box like this, I see no point why you can't try and shield of the remainder of the corner with some sheets at either end of the box.. then open up some holes below and on that shielded side. Since it's a pod you don't need to worry about opening up the base :) the snorkel can be a restriction one the flow levels get up there.

Good Luck with it!

I am playing around with a pod in box idea myself.. I'm trying to use the standard box though.. I know you say that there is stuff all difference between a Pod and Panel filter.. however have you looked at the difference between the surface areas of the 2? I have a pod here, just 120mm diam x ~140mm long.. if you roll this across the panel filter it is about 1.5 times the length for a similar width. I'm all for trying to make things breath as easily as possible. It is also something to try. I'm not sure if the pipe bends I'm thinking of using to get the pod to fit will negate the slightly improved flow?

What are the actual dimensions of the Apexi pod? I couldn't seem to find any dimensions which included top diam, bottom diam and length.

If you're making up your own box like this, I see no point why you can't try and shield of the remainder of the corner with some sheets at either end of the box.. then open up some holes below and on that shielded side. Since it's a pod you don't need to worry about opening up the base :) the snorkel can be a restriction one the flow levels get up there.

Good Luck with it!

I don't know how different the R33 is but there aren't really any places below the airbox where I could put in an air feed.. unless I started cutting holes through the side into the area behind the guard but I am not too keen on that!

An Apexi pod is 117mm high. Diameters are:

Base: 132mm

Top: 120mm

Widest point (which is 20mm above the base): 160mm

Edited by R34mac

Thanks for the Apexi dimensions.. bit too large for what I'm looking at.

No the R33 doesn't have much room either.. I have a return flow intercooler though using standard piping. If I had one that was crossflow and went over the radiator/drivers cam cover then that gives you more room to play with. The ones that go over the drivers cam cover would be good as it leaves lots of room for a snorkel. I don't want to cut any holes either though so the crossflow I/C is not something I want.

In terms of cutting a hole in the lower section it is just an idea to remove some of the restriction to the flow to the pod.. I'm fairly sure that Tao had issues getting enough air into the airbox once boost/airflow levels started to get up quite high for the Hypergear turbos. I think a lot of it has to do with the fact you're trying to suck the surface area of the pod/filter etc though a much smaller snokel/airbox lid inlet. If you open up the box you/re removing a bit of that. If you seal the area around the airbox then the flow past the headlight can feed it. If you have a crossflow intercooler then you already have a feed hole right below it :) I'm thinking out loud here a bit (Well typing as hard as I can) so I may not be taking some things into consideration. My main point is I guess that the pod removes the full need for the box alone to be sealed.. you can increase the area.

You know what you can do? Keep your factory box mounted in the stock location and use a 90 degree bend going through the old intercooler pipe and have the filter fitted under the car in the wheel arch. Measure it up, cut up as need and bam from the top looks stock, but your pod is in your wheel arch. Gravity won't allow water to get sucked up into the turbo either but that isn't to say your pod won't get wet but again you can shield it from splash from your wheel.

I retained my stock (R32) airbox, opened up the roughly triangular shaped hole in the front lower corner, grabbed a 100mm 90° PVC stormwater pipe bend and heated it so I could shape one side and fit it into/onto the triangular opening. Flared it out, pinned it in place with pop rivets and sealed it with silicone. Then banged a 100mm hole in the inner guard straight down to the section where the SMIC used to be. Staight bit of 100mm pipe in the elbow, followed by 90° elbow facing to the brake cooling duct in the (GTR) front bar. Flared the front end of the elbow to make a bellmouth. Between that bit of plumbing (literally!) and the metal turbo inlet pipe, I get all the induction noise you could want, all the filtering you could want, all the cold air you could want, all the ram air pressure boost you could want (if you care) and all the flow restriction reduction you could want.

  • 3 months later...

Sorry to dig up an old post but have looking at shitloads of big horsepower skylines and other imports in fast fours and other mags and one thing I have noticed is that all the cars have a pod in the engine bay and no cold air feed going to them. I've always gone with the thought that cold air is good but that may just be on NA cars perhaps?

Well I've heard that with a bigger intercooler and just a pod there's not much difference with having a pod or cai. But everyone always says if you can have cold air induction obviously that's better. I always think cold air going into a turbo is better than hot air but I don't know how much difference it would actually make

You have to ask the question though, how many of such cars are driven in traffic? And also, how much extra power would have been available if they'd used a cold air induction system and been able to add in a little extra timing here and there? Admittedly, once you have 500+kW, an extra 5% is not exactly going to be noticable unless you're in a tight racing class.

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...