Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi fellas,

Well it's time for me to get some new tires for my car. I saw a few Skylines and Evos driving around with "racing" looking tires - you know, the ones that have the tyre brand in bold white letters on the outside. Looks really tough and gives the race look plus I've heard they are sem-slick and provide good traction - can anyone help and are these street legal and if so - any real benefits or disadvantages AND where can I get some + how much more expensive are they compared to normal ones?

The attached picture is not exactly them but gives you an idea of what I am after!

Cheers

_MG_0591.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386305-racing-tyres-for-my-skyline/
Share on other sites

Just use a paint pen, then you can name then whatever hecktic tyre brand that all the kids are using on any particular day, extra street credibility would be guaranteed.

You could also use a paint pen matching your valour interior, bro........

Ha ha ha ha...you guys serious???

The ones on my friend's car look like semi slick...I'm not just after the paint - I want the added performance too...

But if it's just paint for show then you guys got me...I'm laughing at myself!! :rolleyes:

Don't tell me these are sprayed painted on too?? Surely guys there are racing tyre ranges.

tyres_bridgestone.jpg

....No

they have a special layer of pure white rubber under the black layer, these white rubber trees are found only in the deepest depths of the Amazon. After the tyre is made they are sent to Tibetan Monks who carefully hand carve the outer black layer of rubber until the white layer is exposed, hence the white lettering you see.

People like you are the reason so much of the jungle is being cut down, which is causing global warming. There used to be White rubber tree's along the East coast of Africa, but they were all destroyed.

You can buy R comps, they are road legal, but the dont have the brand name painted on them.

My opinion the best R comps for track work Yokohama A050 or Bridgestone RE55.

Expect to only get about 5000kms out of them, they are also noisy and not very good in the wet

ash

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...