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When you say killed - has the element broken? Have you tried cleaning it - resoldering the joints -= checking the wires to the plug? Have you replaced it with other second hand ones or a new one?

they were replaced with genuine nissan air flow and its happened again.

thanks

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Electrical contact cleaner will clean the element of the AFM.

How has it been determined that you have killed the AFM?

the last two were while my wife drove it, and the car would cut out our mechanic said it would be the afm, pull the plug out and take it to him.

then on the way back from the airport xmas night the car was just on boost i went to kick back to change lanes then it did the same thing my wife said.

any you guys have had a z32 afm im told there better ?:huh:

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the last two were while my wife drove it, and the car would cut out our mechanic said it would be the afm, pull the plug out and take it to him.

then on the way back from the airport xmas night the car was just on boost i went to kick back to change lanes then it did the same thing my wife said.

any you guys have had a z32 afm im told there better ?:huh:

The Z32 has different resolution but is not better.

I still don't understand how you have "killed" the afm. Sure they can get dirty, sure they can have dry soldered joints, sure you can have a wiring issue at the plug but having them fail outright is a bit of a long shot on a relatively new car. You need to find the actual cause.

I have repaired three afm's with dry solder (but much older units that you are using) and have always given the elements a tickle with contact cleaner as a part of routine maintenance.

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The Z32 has different resolution but is not better.

I still don't understand how you have "killed" the afm. Sure they can get dirty, sure they can have dry soldered joints, sure you can have a wiring issue at the plug but having them fail outright is a bit of a long shot on a relatively new car. You need to find the actual cause.

I have repaired three afm's with dry solder (but much older units that you are using) and have always given the elements a tickle with contact cleaner as a part of routine maintenance.

Ours cant be repaired Wolverine, as far as I know. I pulled one apart and found surface mount processors etc inside them but no dry solder joints. They just seem to die for no reason, although touch wood I havent blown one yet. Are you sure they were genuine Rudi?

To run a z32 you would need to tune your car with an Emanage Ultimate or a Fcon Vpro and modify the wiring and piping to fit it. Did your mechanic explain to you that they cant just be swapped?

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The board is potted with some sort of gel, even water wouldnt damage it I would have thought. Perhaps the supply voltage is a little too high? No idea really.

There are a few different types though, perhaps the older ones had issues and were replaced by better ones?

I would try the error codes to make sure, there are many reasons for them to go into limp mode like the brake wire cut mod and throttle motor issues... Perhaps try resetting the ecu properly first?

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The board is potted with some sort of gel, even water wouldnt damage it I would have thought. Perhaps the supply voltage is a little too high? No idea really.

There are a few different types though, perhaps the older ones had issues and were replaced by better ones?

I would try the error codes to make sure, there are many reasons for them to go into limp mode like the brake wire cut mod and throttle motor issues... Perhaps try resetting the ecu properly first?

thanks to all for your help hope to go to car doctor tommorow for check up, will keep you posted on results.:thanks:

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The board is potted with some sort of gel, even water wouldnt damage it I would have thought. Perhaps the supply voltage is a little too high? No idea really.

There are a few different types though, perhaps the older ones had issues and were replaced by better ones?

I would try the error codes to make sure, there are many reasons for them to go into limp mode like the brake wire cut mod and throttle motor issues... Perhaps try resetting the ecu properly first?

Yep.

Original part number was 22680-6N211 for the sensor itself which was used on 02-03 Elgrande (VQ35de), all M35's, 01-03 P12 Primera, 01-04 V35's (NOT VQ35de) and 03-06 VQ30det powered F50 Cima's.

This was changed to 22680-6N21A in Dec 2006 which was only used on the F50 Cima VQ30det thereafter.

Interestingly, the sensor used for just about all other Nissan's (including T30 Xtrail, J31 Maxima, Z33 350z, VQ35de powered V35's, V36 Skyline and PM35 Stagea) is 22680-7S000.

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6N211 is the number that comes up for the sensor if you go through FAST.

There is a second number to left on the part numbers table which is the updated part number (so 6N21A in this instance).

I don't have a screen shot as I am on the wrong computer, but most Nissan dealerships state the default part number and their system automatically updates the part number for the order.

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