Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im assuming that the guy who originally put the grounding kit on my car did it incorrectly as the gear changes just take for-bloody-ever. if anyone can point me to a guide for the proper bolting locations for this kit, itd be appreciated.

i didnt realise how lethargic the nissan auto was untili drove the boxster this week..

ta

Edited by Deep Dish V35

The grounding kits do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. Don't listen to a word anyone says if they say they do. I have put them on 3 of my previous cars and my V35 just in case they actually did something, but they don't.

And seriously, you are comparing a new (presumably dual clutch pack) $100k+ Porsche gearbox to an 8 year old V35 gearbox? WTF?

I have always wondered about the effectivness of grounding kits. I put one on my old J30 maxima years ago, and it did absolutly nothing. At the time I figured it was just a money making scheme for those who were too lazy to clean their factory ground points, and since I always kept connectors and ground points clean, it didn't do anyting for me.

my car comparison was simply from a point of selecting a gear in the V35 and then waiting multiple seconds for anything to happen. i have to select at 4000rpm so that it shifts by the time it gets to 6500rpm....,

its just that when driving our 2008 porsche, tiptronic is worlds apart in effectiveness. not so much the shift speed, but the shift delay..

And seriously, you are comparing a new (presumably dual clutch pack) $100k+ Porsche gearbox to an 8 year old V35 gearbox? WTF?

Does the boxster have a DSG? If so, then it is very unfair to compare it to any standard auto.. not just the V35 RE5.

The grounding kits do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. Don't listen to a word anyone says if they say they do. I have put them on 3 of my previous cars and my V35 just in case they actually did something, but they don't.

I have to disagree, I put one on my V36 a while ago and it definitely sped up the speed of the down changes through the paddles. If it makes any difference to power (which I doubt), it would never be enough to be noticeable and it didn't seem to make any difference to the up changes. One other thing that I have noticed is that it doesn't seem to hunt for gears as much when driving in traffic, in full automatic, previously the box seemed to take a little while to decide which gear it wanted and would sometimes stay in a lower gear for too long. This simply makes it feel a little less jerky when putting around at low speed.

If you believe that they do absolutely zero, then that's fine, but I have noticed a definite difference. Now whether it was worth the $80 or whatever it was, is another question.

Edited by Alkatraz

my car comparison was simply from a point of selecting a gear in the V35 and then waiting multiple seconds for anything to happen. i have to select at 4000rpm so that it shifts by the time it gets to 6500rpm....,

its just that when driving our 2008 porsche, tiptronic is worlds apart in effectiveness. not so much the shift speed, but the shift delay..

you need a shift kit, at 4000 when you shift, the trans will shift at around 4200 or less

its not a shift kit thing. its something electrical. maybe even something in the computer that could be reprogrammed with the right scantool. i dont want it to throw itself into the mext gear and chirp the wheels, just begin the gearchange process when i push the selector.

looks like i'll have to post a video of how long it waits before changing gears. i can literally push the selector, turn the volume up on my radio, then put my hand back on the steering wheel before it does anything at all.

they all do it, they are programmed to be sluggish.

mine did the same thing also.

also the position of the throttle makes a difference. if you full throttle the car, no matter where you select to change gear, it will change at redline (or close to it) again, another programming thing by the TCU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...