Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a box of body parts im wanting to import

79"x40"x26" 1.35 cubic and 60kg

Brand new parts, valued under $1000

Parts are for a V35 which is not locally sold and neither are the parts im buying.

Who can recommend and good shipping company that will deliver from USA (LA) to Brisbane and take care of all clearance etc?

So far my calls have lead to

rolyleahycustomimports @ $910

Shiprite International @ $1183

wwcf @ $ 972

Vanguard Logistic Services (vls) @ $925

None inc insurance and all pickup from Brisbane.

An example of breakdown of costs are

Freight Charge: USD 242.09

Document Fee: USD 125.00

Port Charges: $ 89.08

Terminal Handling: $ 49.78

Delivery Order Fee: $ 75.00

Sea Cargo Fee: $ 37.00

Cargo Management Fee $37.00

Postage/Communication:$21.00

Quarantine Application: $ 56.00

Customs Clearance: $ 137.00

Looking forward to you help!

Edited by R6n350GT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387991-importing-body-parts/
Share on other sites

seems like pretty good price from USA to me for 1.35 Cubic meters i could expect to pay 3 times the freight price alone form japan.

as long as customs dont try sting you which i think they will, they kept me 30mins after arriving in Brisbane airport with a center tailshaft bearing for a Soarer and charged me $17 GST on it before they would let me go.

Edited by PRIMO

customs are going to get you on that. last time I brought something in that size I was hit with an extra $400. speak to interport in murrarie about clearing it and work from there. that is who I use to bring items in from japan/US when I am not using EMS to do it.

Thanks i will look up interport.

VLS said they spoke to their broker about the parts and if it would incur duty/gst and they said not based on what and how much ($950) the package is based on.

What does size matter with customs? Another friend on here used rolyleahycustomimports and didnt pay anything and he brought almost exact same parts.

Thanks i will look up interport.

VLS said they spoke to their broker about the parts and if it would incur duty/gst and they said not based on what and how much ($950) the package is based on.

What does size matter with customs? Another friend on here used rolyleahycustomimports and didnt pay anything and he brought almost exact same parts.

to be honest you are looking at this (and hte details) way too hard. pick a customs/clearance agent and work from there. don't go into so much detail trying to save $5. interport here in brissy are pretty much where its at and most of the local brokers use them to clear incoming frieght anyway.

if someone says globelink - run the other direction.

primo pretty much has it in a nutshell. bring stuff in and get taxed. there's not a easy way around it. he's more than used to the system as am I. both of us do the import thing on a daily basis. (mine is parts, his is cars.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...