Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im currently in the middle of building my r32 gtr, its getting all the supporting mods like bigger fmic, injectors, computor, pump, sump, etc.. only difference was i chose to run a single turbo with a 6boost manifold, split pulsed, t3 flange with a gtx3582r with a split pulsed .82 housing.

Now my builders and tuner strongly recommended me to go bigger with the exhaust housing go to a 1.06. Although there are no split pulsed 1.06 for gtx35 in t3 flange.

i guess i should mention the engine is getting rebuilt with, tomei type b cams, forged pistons, forged rods and bearings. they said there is vertualy not much difference in turbo lag between the .82 and 1.06 with the rb26 hence the suggestion of changing.

Is my turbo really gunna run out of breath with the .82 housing on a non stroked engine?

Should i change my housing the a 1.06 open t3 and will manifold work fine still with that setup? been 2x 40mm waste gates too cause of the split pusle setup.

Or should i keep my .82 split pulse setup?

I just wanna do it right the first time, thanks guy for any input.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388574-my-gtr-build-and-split-pulse/
Share on other sites

.82 split pulse will indeed be small. It's not the "normal" size of a .82 from a single housing - that is the point they are making.

Most generally seem to go the 1.06/T4 split pulse if heading down that road. Or a .82 in a non-split setup.

Thanks nismoid. I kinda understand now.

so is there is a difference in size between the split pulse .82 and open .82? i thought it was ratio and it would be the same dispite the divider in the middle.

Does that mean my manifold is not good? should i bother getting the t4?

or

its fine just switch it to a 1.06 open housing?

I really wish i went the t4 flange, kyle from 6boost suggested that the t4 is probably too big and stick with the t3 .82 housing. Im not blaming him. just wished i did my research before hand. :( :( :( :( :(

god dayummmmmmm

Im running an open 1.06 Tial rear on a GTX3071, I would say there would be 2-300 rpm difference in spool between that and the 0.82.

Go the larger housing to keep exhaust temps down, especially if you plan to ramp the boost up.

An open housing will bolt up to the T3 split manifold no problem. I wouldnt worry about the flange.

Yeah thanks for that mate, i did see that but because its from america and ive had bad experiences buying shit from over sea's and not fitting etc. On the other hand australia gets our turbo's from america aye? so it would work?

Im running an open 1.06 Tial rear on a GTX3071, I would say there would be 2-300 rpm difference in spool between that and the 0.82.

Go the larger housing to keep exhaust temps down, especially if you plan to ramp the boost up.

An open housing will bolt up to the T3 split manifold no problem. I wouldnt worry about the flange.

ah ok thanks heaps for the advice man, im gunna check out that t3 split pulse 1.06 housing on that website black br32 sugggested (from america). if its no good ill just get the open 1.06.

thanks :)

im currently using the t4 version of that ATP housing. i purchased it off their housing website any problems.

it fits and works but the casting isnt up to the same standards as the garrett housings. having said that though they seam to work fine and perform well. i had a few troubles with fitment but all of them were due to the massive T4 flange and manifold design, with a T3 flange it should be easy.

Edited by JonnoHR31

im currently using the t4 version of that ATP housing. i purchased it off their housing website any problems.

it fits and works but the casting isnt up to the same standards as the garrett housings. having said that though they seam to work fine and perform well. i had a few troubles with fitment but all of them were due to the massive T4 flange and manifold design, with a T3 flange it should be easy.

ah thats good to no, atleast i can trust to buy off them, How long till u got the part?

Thats weird cause on the caption for the housing it says "GT35R 1.06 A/R T3 divided (twin-scroll) turbine housing. Garrett casting, 3" V-band outlet."

So it isnt made by garrett? So there was no problem fitting it to the turbo, just to the manifold? why is that i thought its just 4 bolts?

Thanks heaps aye

yer your right that is a garrett casting, sorry. in that case it'll be fine.

the T4 flange fouled on one of the compressor housing bolts (i couldnt rotate it out of the way) so i had to leave it out and undoing/tightening the oil feed requires taking off the compressor housing. also due to the design to seperate the turbo from manifold i had to take both out of the car with the lines attached and do it on the ground, impossible to get to on the motor. but its from a combination of the massive T4 flange and the design of the hks low mount manifold.

edit: cant remember how long postage took sorry, was way too long ago

Edited by JonnoHR31

Im pretty sure if you call Kyle he will be able to change the flange for you to T4 if needed

Im also fairly certain a lot of manifolds are coming out T3/T4 split pulse friendly. IE with a T4 sized base plate and T3 split pulse ports and bolt holes to suit both. I am under the impression running a T4 split pulse on a manifold like that wouldnt hurt anything, probbly best to talk to kyle about that though.

Im pretty sure if you call Kyle he will be able to change the flange for you to T4 if needed

Im also fairly certain a lot of manifolds are coming out T3/T4 split pulse friendly. IE with a T4 sized base plate and T3 split pulse ports and bolt holes to suit both. I am under the impression running a T4 split pulse on a manifold like that wouldnt hurt anything, probbly best to talk to kyle about that though.

yeah true, bit late now tho cause my build is in progress :(

Ah really wish i new that before hand lol.

yer your right that is a garrett casting, sorry. in that case it'll be fine.

the T4 flange fouled on one of the compressor housing bolts (i couldnt rotate it out of the way) so i had to leave it out and undoing/tightening the oil feed requires taking off the compressor housing. also due to the design to seperate the turbo from manifold i had to take both out of the car with the lines attached and do it on the ground, impossible to get to on the motor. but its from a combination of the massive T4 flange and the design of the hks low mount manifold.

edit: cant remember how long postage took sorry, was way too long ago

ah right, haha that is a bit of mucking around, glad to hear it worked out for u in the end tho. i sent them a message about it, if not ill just go a t3 1.06 open housing.

i have a t4 divided 1.06 ATP rear housing on a gtx35, like Jonno said there are a pain but nothing you should run away from.

lucky me i can get all my comp cover bolts on and i actually ended up making a 200 degree open end spanner to help do up the lines still a bitch but works.

im running a 6boost t4 divied manifold and bolts up not a prob.

i have a t4 divided 1.06 ATP rear housing on a gtx35, like Jonno said there are a pain but nothing you should run away from.

lucky me i can get all my comp cover bolts on and i actually ended up making a 200 degree open end spanner to help do up the lines still a bitch but works.

im running a 6boost t4 divied manifold and bolts up not a prob.

Ah really, thanks ill probably order the t3 1.06 divided off ATP then as i just discovered the mark up price on these housings is huge in australia. Its a bit late to send my manifold up to kyle to get it changed to t4, maybe one day when i upgrade to a bigger turbo. (hopefully it can be done without dramas).

the gtx35 ure running it on rb26? how is it? sound good? what boost u running it at? when does full boost kick it? you happy u chose that turbo?

thanks heaps for the info mate.

havnt got any numbers yet, the set up is on a RB30with 26 head dry sump motor.

i went this setup cause i thought it would be the most responsive setup but still achieve 500-550rwhp on E85

its all in a S14a silvia.. track car been setup for curcuit / time attack

Lol thats overkill for 500-550whp on E85 man - should still see >600whp on a DD if you leaned on it a bit. Just be a bit wary of EGTs on the track/drift, one of the guys here had one on his SR20 S15 running 600-700hp @ hubs on E85 and the divider in the ATP TS housing cracked... not ideal.

yeah i know just want it to be reliable as well and be able to add more power if needed for different curcuits like Eastern creek

thats not good about the divider, i think ill be going individual EGT sensors on the manifold runners to make sure tune is as reliable as it can be

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • lights are on just the one click.  
    • Absolutely matters because, while a temperature change will eventually reach a sensor at the end of a static line, the response time is far far far too slow to be useful. Might as well not have a temp gauge at all.
    • When I was eyeing off the 370GT (after deciding I didn't want to spend 30-40k+ to relive my early 20s in an R33) I thought it'd be a good project to add a turbo to it. Now that I have a 370GT, and I've had a couple of chances to open it up, I'm pretty stunned by how much power it makes 🫠 Honestly, the way the VVEL opens it up, it almost feels like there's a little turbo tucked away in there somewhere. It's like Nissan looked at VTEC and said "hold my beer" 😁 Has anyone thrown a turbo into their 370Z or 370GT? Is there a conservative boost level you can run without having to upgrade the fuel system, or are bigger injectors and a bigger pump a given?
×
×
  • Create New...