Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks mate... Will hopefully get it sorted before Texi...

360kw was the highest run... It was run @ 357kw on the final tune for safety... The reason for the different power figures is the 3 boost levels and also the % of ethanol.... My power ranges from 311kw to 357kw depending in boost and E content :)

Hope that makes sense?

High exactly does this work?

Do you manually have to look at your ethanol sensor reading and then make the call on which boost setting to run? And where are you getting the fuel? I mean if your filling at a servo I don't see you would need different tunes for E%..

Yeah mate, we only have a few servos up here with E85.... If I want to go do Putty Rd I'll burn a tank of fuel and there is no e85 within reach, so I can add pump 98... I don't know why the whole thing is confusing? Below 60% ethanol I tap the boost controller to low boost.... Not that hard :P

Although at the moment I ain't running any boost :/

I don't know why the whole thing is confusing?

Its not im just abit slow and I live in Victoria, the E85 state :)

So does the Haltech work in conjunction with the ethanol sensor to adjust the mapping automatically?

I don't get why you can't run the high boost setting on all of the tunes?

Its not im just abit slow and I live in Victoria, the E85 state :)

So does the Haltech work in conjunction with the ethanol sensor to adjust the mapping automatically?

I don't get why you can't run the high boost setting on all of the tunes?

Ahhh well slow and Victoria go hand in hand :P haha just kidden.....

Mate, JEM tuned for safety, they set the tune So I could thrash it, limiter bash it and it maintain safe AFR's..... I can run 21 psi safe on E85 but on 98 18 is the safe limit.... There is ways to set it up so it changes, but of your now clued up enough to change the boost controller, you shouldn't have a powerful car lol.....

There is ways to set it up so it changes, but of your now clued up enough to change the boost controller, you shouldn't have a powerful car lol.....

tuner setup low boost on my car and I have NFI how to change it hahaha

safety is overrated. RB25's are cheap.

Duno what it is mate, its pretty f*ked getting 19-20L/100kms, will definitey have that issue addressed in the tune when I do a turbo upgrade/ tune. My new O2 sensor cannot be the prob, I was getting similar economy with the old one, the sensor is working ok because I do get better economy on long drives

I have no idea how these guys are getting 12L/100 in my 5 years of daily driving rb20/25's I never once got better than 400ks to a tank most of the time it was 300-350, my 2.2L camry does 13l/100 at best lol

Yeah mate, we only have a few servos up here with E85.... If I want to go do Putty Rd I'll burn a tank of fuel and there is no e85 within reach, so I can add pump 98... I don't know why the whole thing is confusing? Below 60% ethanol I tap the boost controller to low boost.... Not that hard :P

Although at the moment I ain't running any boost :/

E85 in Richmond.

Yeah mate, we only have a few servos up here with E85.... If I want to go do Putty Rd I'll burn a tank of fuel and there is no e85 within reach, so I can add pump 98... I don't know why the whole thing is confusing? Below 60% ethanol I tap the boost controller to low boost.... Not that hard :P

Although at the moment I ain't running any boost :/

A bit of fun of running with glove box

Still need to change to running a Mac valve

Don't KU36s last longer than RSR though? I know RSR is a more grippy tyre but they really don't last.

yeah, but they are just not enough tyre for the current price.

when they hit the market they gained a huge popularity cos they were cheap and grip. however kuhmo saw this popularuity and raised the price a few times. now you can get a better tyre for the same or less.

FWIW NT05's last me longer than the KU36's (admittedly I have only had 1 set of the Kuhmo's)

the ones on the front of my car lasted a year of daily driving and 3 x deca's and were still going when i sold those rims (the rears lasted the same, but were basically full slicks by then)

I have no idea how these guys are getting 12L/100 in my 5 years of daily driving rb20/25's I never once got better than 400ks to a tank most of the time it was 300-350, my 2.2L camry does 13l/100 at best lol

maybe we are better drivers... :P

Have heard a few complaints about 36s glad I didn't buy them ..31s seem to be a better tyre for the money by all accounts..

Nittos just over 400$ for 255/17s pretty good value and look more like a track tyre than street..whT are they like in the wet ?

Will either get these or splurge on the yokos :thumbsup:

I imagine that would only be possible if boost was being controlled by the Haltech? With boost being controlled separately by the HKS EVC, it's not going to do it automatically.

Yeah it probably does work with the Haltech boost control, i didnt go down that path as i thought the boost control was ordinary from what i had read.....Good call on that one..... NOT! :P

As for the E sensor, i had to run it for the flex setup, its pretty good! At E65 now :D

Lol 34geeteetee I'm pretty sure err 100 is an open circuit. To test that have the car running at a time the Evc is working fine then unplug the solenoid. If it gives the same error thhen that means open circuit.

it would be doing.that when its hot coz the heat makes it expand and It must have a dry or cracked solder joint inside. Make sure it is far.from.the. exhaust and that the solenoid barbs point directly skyward.

also why.does it Sig say 360kw but u keep saying its in the process and are up to 300 odd? 2nd tune?

Hmmm from what i read the Err 001 was open circuit? The stepper motor bit is tucked in the far right hand side of the engine bay, as far away as it can be anyway...... AND i think the barbs are facing down, why would that cause a problem? REALLY hope to get it fixed as its giving me the sh!ts :/

Hmmm from what i read the Err 001 was open circuit? The stepper motor bit is tucked in the far right hand side of the engine bay, as far away as it can be anyway...... AND i think the barbs are facing down, why would that cause a problem? REALLY hope to get it fixed as its giving me the sh!ts :/

its a gravity operated solenoid, so it wont control boost well if its upside down. it says it in the HKS book lol

so if you read err 100 was open circuit, and i said that i think its an open circuit, doesnt that mean its an open circuit? sorry man just wondering if you made a typo there lol.

if it is an open circuit refer to previous post

its a gravity operated solenoid, so it wont control boost well if its upside down. it says it in the HKS book lol

so if you read err 100 was open circuit, and i said that i think its an open circuit, doesnt that mean its an open circuit? sorry man just wondering if you made a typo there lol.

if it is an open circuit refer to previous post

Gravity eh? :glare: lol well i think i better tackle that is issue number one!

Nah wasnt a typo, i was reading up on it (well trying too) and i thought Err 001 was open circuit and Err 100 was Stepper Motor Memory or something like that, it says to do a reset or something but as i know fck all about it i have been hesitant to do so, i switched it off so its on gate pressure and yesterday it still come up Err 100 after a squirt....

I am retarded when it comes to this sort of thing :ph34r:

Have heard a few complaints about 36s glad I didn't buy them ..31s seem to be a better tyre for the money by all accounts..

Nittos just over 400$ for 255/17s pretty good value and look more like a track tyre than street..whT are they like in the wet ?

Will either get these or splurge on the yokos :thumbsup:

Thats $400 per tyre?

That's rather expensive, I would rather rsr's I think

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...