Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 S1 RB25 with nice deep gouge marks in 2 bores

mods: genuine T6725G 8cm, standard intake manifold, HKS cams/cam gears, NO VCT, RB20 loom and ECU
fuel: BP98
power: 311kw on 19psi
oil: penrite 15w40
useage: drifting
lifespan: have only done 1 event in it so far but seems strong, no blow by or anything
failure: none yet

E16C0E13-7A45-4DF1-81D6-4948F531E79F-252

Hey guys, can I join?

mods: 3" exhaust, greddy 600*300*76 intercooler, nismo fuel pump, nismo 740cc injectors, Hypergear ATR43 G3 turbo, low mount, stock manifold
fuel: e85 Caltex EFlex
power: 304 @ 17psi (clutch slipping so can't go further)
oil: Castrol Edge 10w60
useage: Daily driver - to and from work - occasional mountains flogging or track day
lifespan: Owned for 3 years still going
failure: None - touch wood
comments: So much fun!

2013-04-04%2018.42.32.jpg

Hi Tranman , I'd like to see your intake from the Z32 to the GTX3076R if possible because many claim its difficult to do .

Do we know for sure if the std GTS25T airbox can't support 300 RWKW , I still have mine and it has a cleanable Piper Cross element in it . I'd also like to see the box mods as I like stealth and I'm using the same IC as yours . The airbox in R33 GTRs must be significantly better if it supports more than 290-300 RWKW .

Good effort , cheers A .

Pictures (below) of what the workshop (Chasers Motorworks) did to open it up the stock airbox. They also fabricated the intake pipe to the turbo using a silicon hose joiner from the z32 to the 3" metal intake pipe before joining to the turbo via 3" to 4" silicon hose fitting. I was advised it was a bitch to do by the workshop.

The stock airbox was holding me back on my car hence needing to drill out holes. Not saying it will/may hold others back if they have better flowing setups etc.

stockairboxtopview.jpg

stockairboxsideview.jpg

Was tough getting a pic to show you the pipe from the z32 at this time, but you may be able to just make out how it reaches the turbo.

intakefromz32.jpg

I looked up pics of the R33 GTRs airbox and it seems to lay on its side so there is a greater volume of air either side of the element .

Has anyone tried to use the 33 GTRs box in a 25T ? Probably a bit of stuffing around making a Y pipe but if you're doing something for a bigger turbo inlet ?

A .

Edited by discopotato03

i wouldn't worry about water... I ran my car like that for 5 years with no issues.

(not the hole cut in the stock airbox, but a pod in a custom box with a CAI from the front bar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...