Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep I remember that, a mate of mine did similar - well more the doing mid 10s and 400kw on a stock motor (with just pump gas, no nitrous oxide, I must add) thing that the crowing and being banned thing :)

This car has flawless victory, however:

Yellow pages says the business still exists.

Funny to hear what happened to him in the end.. I have a few things in common with him.. A name, bit of an attitude problem and around the same time for the same reason we both... Well I wont say.

Hi, I'm Scott.

Somewhere in one of the threads around this time it came up....I can't remember which one but I am pretty sure it was alleged but can't remember if it was confirmed.

Much of what was said about making power still rings true. Power is relatively easy, longevity is harder.

totally... I think both the Simon's (R32 and S14) are good examples of high power, longevity and hard use.

My last one lasted 3 years getting pushed pretty hard at this power and that was a 200,000+ motor that had god knows what happen to it in japan (car had harness marks, camera mount marks, the turbo was clearly either returned to stock or had been popped/replaced and repair work to both rear 1/4's)

I think it is safe to say that if you get a fresh-ish 25 and it's mainly street use, (and you service/tune it appropriately / look after it) there is nothing to say you cant enjoy being in the 300 club for a long time... you just have to be prepared that there is a chance it will let go. And if it's tracked regularly, then you need to be prepared that it will most probably let go... but then again, a built motor can let go too...

I have 2 mates that have 300kw built RB's and they have been through 6 motors between them over the last 5 years... I have pushed that power out of stockers and bolt on's and I only used 2. not true of all examples, but definately food for thought if anyone is reading this and trying to make the descision

I assume the only weak point for now is the HG and if that goes I'll replace it on mine, if for some reason it's more terminal than that then I'll likely throw another stocker in its place...

The NEO is a tough bit of gear and I hope it holds up :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...