Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a unknow part inline with my fuel return line it is located in the same area as the stock fuel filter

it looks like some sort of regulator with no ajustments. I have a Aeromotive fuel regulator and i was

wondering if this part would affect the pressure as it is inline after the ajustable fuel reg.

Also do i need it as i cant find any info on it or what it is

thanks Sam.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389549-unknown-fuel-line-component/
Share on other sites

Hi thanks for the reply i dint see any reply yesterday si i have allready removed and tossed it into the bin

Since i removed it setting the fuel pressure is much easier now i have to find the second one and ill get rid of that as well

quote name='SargeRX8' timestamp='1327672838' post='6207247']

It's a dampener, leave it there. There is another one in the fuel tank.

heres some stuff i googled earlier, I thought it best to keep it but happy to stand corrected..

Like most mechanical systems, the fuel system has resonances related to the length of the components and the speed which the pressure waves travel in the lines. The injector fuel rail is particularly susceptible because it has two closed ends forming a nice resonator (standing waves with high and low pressure along the rail), and a bunch of vibrating injectors to excite the resonance. The dampener de-Q's the resonator, it reduces the ratio of stored energy to energy dissipated. Any mechanical system of this nature needs to have it resonances managed, which is why all the auto manufacturers use them.

There was a fuel system engineer much smarter than us who decided a fuel pulsation damper was needed.

Without an FPD the fuel pressure will fluctuate (at a frequency higher than your fuel pressure gauge is capable of displaying). If the fuel pressure is fluctuating everytime the injectors open and close then they are not metering fuel as accurately as they could be.

Apparently some aftermarket FPRs have them built in though. :unsure:

Hi thanks for your input after reading your post it makes sense so i went through the rubbish bin found said dampener and fitted it back to where it should be

The reason i have been playing with fuel pressure my motor is now run in i know most people tell me it was ready to flog after a couple of hundred kms. But im old school

I had the fuel pressure set a bit low 30psi for the first 5000kms also timing was aset at 10deg for that time also noticed that spark plugs were still pretty clean. After 5000kms

i wanted to set everything as per std si i upped the timing to 15 deg fuel pressure at 42psi so off i went for a drive was hopeing to put a gin on my face after sooo long but come

home a litle dissapointed.What happened drove car untill everything warmed up got on to my local back road and got on the thunder stick. Stuck me to the seat right up to around 4500rpm

then starts misfiring almost sounds like the engine is flooding it keeps misfiring for a few hundred meters then comes good ran it this way gently for 3 days then took out the plugs

and they are black and sooty. I thought it might be the plugs NGK Platinum so i put a new set of Denso iridium plugs in still doing the same.

Here are the engine stats: New Engine: ,,Hi-flow Turbo:,,Coil Paks:,,Plugs:,,Fuel Pump:,, 80MM Throttle Body + greddy intake manifold :

,,Fuel Regulator

Compresson: 1=163psi

2=165psi

3=160psi

4=165psi

5=163psi

6=160psi

Changes from old setup: "MANIFOLD" "THROTTLE BODY" "8.5.1 COMP FORGED PISTONS +40" New Fuel Pump+Coilpaks

Plugs gapped at .8mm Engine idle 650rpm with throttle switch disconnected 15deg timing 750rpm with switch connected still 15deg stat timing.

When i move the ajustment screw to set the pressure to 42psi with vac line to reg disconected just before it gets to 42psi the pressure droppes to 38psi on the gauge and wont ajust any higher

unless i touch the throttle a little then the pressure goes to around 50psi then back to38psi i have ajusted it so that im getting 42psi with thottle moved a little

but it stll drops back to 38psi does not move when vac line plugged back on.

Can anyone shed some light on the problem as i need it to run ok before i get new ecu and have it tuned.

I LIVE 3 HRS AWAY FROM NEAREST DYNO

PS. SORRY TO MAKE THIS INTO A SHORT NOVEL

heres some stuff i googled earlier, I thought it best to keep it but happy to stand corrected..

Like most mechanical systems, the fuel system has resonances related to the length of the components and the speed which the pressure waves travel in the lines. The injector fuel rail is particularly susceptible because it has two closed ends forming a nice resonator (standing waves with high and low pressure along the rail), and a bunch of vibrating injectors to excite the resonance. The dampener de-Q's the resonator, it reduces the ratio of stored energy to energy dissipated. Any mechanical system of this nature needs to have it resonances managed, which is why all the auto manufacturers use them.

There was a fuel system engineer much smarter than us who decided a fuel pulsation damper was needed.

Without an FPD the fuel pressure will fluctuate (at a frequency higher than your fuel pressure gauge is capable of displaying). If the fuel pressure is fluctuating everytime the injectors open and close then they are not metering fuel as accurately as they could be.

Apparently some aftermarket FPRs have them built in though. :unsure:

Your problem is the tune. So many changes! - get that new ecu and drive very carefully to the tuner. I am very old school - leave the fpr standard, run in should take 30 minutes - get to your tuner asap.

You don't mention new injectors and, if you are not getting a Link or similar, better afm.

Yep i know its never going to work properly without some sort of ecu management

I have a Emange Blue+ Z32 AFM 3bar pressure sensor that i was going to use but Im in 2 minds over it

So many ecu choices then people to tune them i was told today the dyno place in nowra shut shop over

a year ago plus id rather go to sydney to get it tuned spent to much money not to.

Thanks for all your inputs ill do some researching on ecu's and who tunes them

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you're setting the fuel pressure with the engine running. From what I understand you set it while the engine is turned off but fuel pump running.

Also, why ditch the factory reg? I'd go buy a new factory one if I were you and be done with it.

Hi Steve thanks for your reply phoned simon and going to drop into his workshop on the way home

from work this week thanks sure beats going all the way to sydney.

Definitely open, Simon 0427 387 842

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...