Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...

Thread dig

No I did not change my shafts when I swapped my 32 subframe to a 33 one.

Still work fine though you are right in saying that it is wider and it will push your wheels out.

I'm not so sure I like the look

  • 6 months later...

Another thread dig, I've nearly finished my conversion (after starting it in 2014 lol) of R33 subframe into my R32 and I'm struggling for info about the rear LCA inner bushes. There was a mention earlier that washers are required but shouldn't I be able to get R33 bushes to suit an R33 subframe?

The difference I've measured for the width of the rear LCA inner bushes: R32-45mm, R33-50mm.

I've even asked about aftermarket R33 rear LCA's and they all tell me that they're 45mm!

Any help is appreciated.

See the pics of R32 vs R33.

post-10715-14604628332168_thumb.jpgpost-10715-14604628486645_thumb.jpg

  • 8 months later...
12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

HICAS notwithstanding, they are supposed to be the same "geometry".

Just bought one for $60 with all the arms and hubs (which I'm guessing I just use my R32 ones in) so will look at making some offset-offset spacers to align everything back to the middle

  • 5 months later...

Update on doing this for anyone looking to do this, parts required are:

1, R33/R34 or S14/15 subframe. (I used a R33 non-Hicas subframe, R34/S15 subframes have more gusseting, I also welded in a GKtech subframe reinforcing kit.)

2, Offset subframe bushes (I used the GKtech solid offset bushes, these mount the subframe up a lot higher which is better for roll centre and will require a little "massage" of the floor pan on the front on either side of the subframe, test fit the subframe before mounting the diff and arms on it.....all will become obvious)

3, R33/S14 lower suspension arms (you can still use the R32 arms but will need spacers/washers to pack out the difference on the inside mounts

4, R32 upper arms (I made the mistake of buying brand new R33 top arms thinking they would be required.....but they foul on the shocks) 

5, Driveshaft Spacers (I used the GKtech 10mm ones. There is some differing thoughts as to whether these are required, but I figured if the R33 subframe is 10mm wider on either side then I would put them in to avoid damaging the CV joints)

6, R33/S14 Tie Rods and Bushes (If you are getting rid of the Hicas by going to a non-Hicas subframe like I did you will need these and something like a set of Whiteline bushes to replace the ball joints that are in the hubs for the Hicas tie rods)

7, R32 ARB (seems to still fit, the mounts are spaced a little further apart)

IMG_0509.JPG

Edited by Sub Boy32
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...