Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone iv tried searching google and all that but I keep getting mixed answers. Now I'm putting a sr in my BMW and I have a sr box and a rb20 box either one will work I just want to know what one is better I don't want stupid answers only people that have used both. The sr box is out of a 180 type x and the 20 box is out of my old 32. The sr will be running a td06h-20g so I'm hoping around 260kw which the 20 box handled before. Anyone thats thinking buy a rb25 box I know they are better but a pain to fit up to a sr. Any info would be gold

RB20 and RB25 gearboxes bolt to the backs of RBs. So I would expect you would have the same issues using an RB20 box on an SR as you would an RB25 box on an SR.

The SR20 and RB20 internals are very similar though, with the same PPG and OS Giken part numbers anyway. So general health and age would be the determining factor one would think.

I would be sticking with the SR20 gearbox behind an SR20. Just be sensible with the sprung centre clutch and use good quality Castrol fluid and would be ok provided the car isnt being clutch kicked like a wet, stray dog

Yeah that's what I would do. I just don't want to put a weaker box on when I have both available I already need a custom shaft so I don't care about that. Also the shifter is in different locations the 20 box seems to line up near perfect. I'm not to worried about gearing as the diff in using (m3 LSD) is already in the 3.8 regon I think so that would decide most of how the car reacts.

They are for most part the same box, no real difference, just made for a different car. So go with the SR20 for ease of use. As for RB25 gearbox, you can buy SR20 adaptor plates so no cut and shut necessary. Running 260rwkw that's the path I'd heel heading down, personally.

I don't think it really matters which box you use. My experience has been that Nissan makes near indestructible gearboxes. (Although I have heard of 1 person who managed to lunch 3 RB boxes in a matter of months - probably using a VHD multi-plate clutch, and sidestepping the clutch at 7000 rpm.)

Since you are using a SR engine, it makes good sense to use a SR gearbox, IMHO.

another thing i've been told is that the SR has longer raitos. may want to scope that out for yourself though.

RB tops at around 200, SR at 240ish. (Same diff ) but again, double check that...

I can tell you now my 20 box seen more the 200 got 215 (nismo 260 cluster) before I slowed down on a private road of course diff is the main controll of top speed so the m3 diff would benefit from a shorter ratio box

Yuh, not even close to correct.  The RB20 will see over 180 km/h in 4th easily, run to much much more than 200 in 5th.  The main differences in ratios between SR cars and RB cars is that the RB diffs are shorter than 4:1 and the SR diffs are taller than 3.7:1.  The SR gearbox ratios are therefore better suited to the longer diff gears.

Bsa.  Just use the SR gearbox.  It is better suited to your engine and your diff ratio.

Edited by GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...