Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just few questions my r33 s1 skyline seems to be running pretty rich to the point its fumming i guess out the back and staining rear bumber just above the tip,

Now im told this is normal due to the mods i have and it not being tuned being ,3" inch xforce exhaust turbo back and Fmic .. hasnt been boosted completly stock,

Besides the shocking fuel economy is it anything to worry about in the long run it isnt backfiring fire or anything to that extreme just notice the fumes really strong can see it coming out the back.

My plan is to get it tuned after upping the boost as i dont want to tune it till ive done stage 1 mods atleast.

Also am i better off replacing the turbo before it dies possibly rebuilding (high flowing) etc or wait till it happens just i say this due to it being a s1 turbo with original ks which is "185,000kms" and i hear these turbos are kinda fragile after such a long use that im scared once i put a bbost controller on and up the boost the turbo wont handle it for long.. Hasnt been boosted at all its whole life just thinking because of its age,l am i just better of replacing it with a bolt or (high flowing) or keeping it till it happens.. It's just a cruiser not a track car but i hear high flowing the stock ones are a cheaper option .

p.s sorry about the spelling and bad sentence structure as im on a smartphone :)

Cheer's

Edited by BrOwnY GT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/390240-r33-running-richetc/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Just few questions my r33 s1 skyline seems to be running pretty rich to the point its fumming i guess out the back and staining rear bumber just above the tip,

Now im told this is normal due to the mods i have and it not being tuned being ,3" inch xforce exhaust turbo back and Fmic .. hasnt been boosted completly stock,

Besides the shocking fuel economy is it anything to worry about in the long run it isnt backfiring fire or anything to that extreme just notice the fumes really strong can see it coming out the back.

My plan is to get it tuned after upping the boost as i dont want to tune it till ive done stage 1 mods atleast.

Also am i better off replacing the turbo before it dies possibly rebuilding (high flowing) etc or wait till it happens just i say this due to it being a s1 turbo with original ks which is "185,000kms" and i hear these turbos are kinda fragile after such a long use that im scared once i put a bbost controller on and up the boost the turbo wont handle it for long.. Hasnt been boosted at all its whole life just thinking because of its age,l am i just better of replacing it with a bolt or (high flowing) or keeping it till it happens.. It's just a cruiser not a track car but i hear high flowing the stock ones are a cheaper option .

p.s sorry about the spelling and bad sentence structure as im on a smartphone :)

Cheer's

wtf does this mean? people keep saying they never boost their cars... am i the only one with boost?

anyway.. check fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs...

When i say hasnt been boosted its whole life i mean.... it hasnt had its boost increased at all from factory.. aka "Boosted" sorry you didnt understand,

ill check for leaks i doubt it though has been through major service all filters sparks were changed after fmic install as it was miss firing at the time..

Doesnt the stock ecu not run correctly with mods and leans out making it run rich? Was just told dont know if theres any truth to it..

cheers for replies

Edited by BrOwnY GT

So is it worth keeping the stock turbo or am i better off just pulling it out and getting it highflowed or even a bolt on though due its age and wanting to increase boost.. or is it just like no point replacing it if theres nothing currently wrong with it.

Also ive been told getting it chipped etc is a little hard due to my car being a auto etc?

I mean how much faith can i leave in a turbo that has done 185,000ks then to up the boost to put more strain on it..

Edited by BrOwnY GT

Dude, there is a great deal of reading to be done one here. Several hundred threads with the same questions as yours.

FWIW, the mods you have listed should not be making it use so much juice. That's why I suggested you check the oxy sensor, because it would have been the number one suspect.

cheers

Dude, there is a great deal of reading to be done one here. Several hundred threads with the same questions as yours.

FWIW, the mods you have listed should not be making it use so much juice. That's why I suggested you check the oxy sensor, because it would have been the number one suspect.

cheers

ill check it again cheers regardless, i asked a few questions didnt really get much of a answer in regards to the stock ecu not being effected by the mods being more air flow etc and just a opinion on replacing the turbo before increasing the psi regarding its amount of k's..

Ive read the threads regarding highflowing a stock turbo etc.. There isnt that much i could find regarding ecu with a automatic as most is just got to do with manuals.

No problems anyways thanks for input

Edited by BrOwnY GT

Does your exhaust flame up on decel?

here's mine when I disabled O2 Feedback, loads of boost, and a nice exhaust leak post catalylic... so changing the O2 "may" help too... also I hope you're not running an atmospheric BOV

I doubt a genuine 185xxx turbo that has ran only stock boost would be on it's way. EVERY single R32/33 would have more than 200000kms on the clock, people saying theirs has done 80xxx or so are lying to themselves and others. Jack up the car, check bearing noises and play in stock tie rods/tie rod ends to determine the age.

I had a 180SX which still has a RB20DET, bought a 2nd hand S1 R33 turbo for it with around 150xxx on it, slapped it on the car and it has done another 70xxx ontop and it still fine! (my friend owns it now)

I hope the above made sense, just had lunch I'm sleepy

EVERY single R32/33 would have more than 200000kms on the clock, people saying theirs has done 80xxx or so are lying to themselves and others.

There's a few. I bought my '93 R32 from Japan in '99 with only 23000km on the clock, and the car looked like it had only done that much. There was nothing on the car that looked like it had gone as far as 50,000. It's now up to 150,000.

Does your exhaust flame up on decel?

here's mine when I disabled O2 Feedback, loads of boost, and a nice exhaust leak post catalylic... so changing the O2 "may" help too... also I hope you're not running an atmospheric BOV

I doubt a genuine 185xxx turbo that has ran only stock boost would be on it's way. EVERY single R32/33 would have more than 200000kms on the clock, people saying theirs has done 80xxx or so are lying to themselves and others. Jack up the car, check bearing noises and play in stock tie rods/tie rod ends to determine the age.

I had a 180SX which still has a RB20DET, bought a 2nd hand S1 R33 turbo for it with around 150xxx on it, slapped it on the car and it has done another 70xxx ontop and it still fine! (my friend owns it now)

I hope the above made sense, just had lunch I'm sleepy

Cheers mate,

Yea doesnt spit flames lol just heavy backfire on decel smells very rich and fumes out heavy u can see it running up bumper spits out a little soot looks like aswell exhaust and tip of the bumper where it hits covered in it.. (like seeing heat coming up off a road on a hot day really heavy though) .. doesnt smoke out on boost or anything either ... Yea stock bov.. ill jack it up tonight and check :)

Edited by BrOwnY GT

EVERY single R32/33 would have more than 200000kms on the clock, people saying theirs has done 80xxx or so are lying to themselves and others.

Nope, I have a 1990 HCR32 that only done 60K and I'm in the process of selling another with similar mileage. Imported by a family member from Japan 10 years ago, and have been is storage since.

Nope, I have a 1990 HCR32 that only done 60K and I'm in the process of selling another with similar mileage. Imported by a family member from Japan 10 years ago, and have been is storage since.

It's not that they dont excist its more the point that a majority of private sales and car salesman are known for altering the k's on these .. getting a 94 r33 even r32 what 89? at this time is crazy to think that they have 60,xxx+ks genuine on the clock unless of course as you have said have had a family member special circumstances etc different scenario..

I mean to goto a say any car salesmen for him tell you, hey i have this awesome 94 r33 skyline with 60,000ks on the clock... is kinda hard to belive you know.. it is 2012... and these cars have stopped production.. right.

P.S back on topic going to wire in a z32afm see how it goes. Had one i have yet to put in.

Edited by BrOwnY GT

Don't you dare wire in a Z32 with the stock computer, it will run like horsesht...

serious? Ok i got a mate think he has a stock working spare ill try that.

Yea i know that's issue i did hear on here someone was using a nistune in a auto without issues but i dunno..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...