Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Water Oil Cooler Rb25

P.K

By P.K,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
3Katz Collaborator

3Katz

Posted
Posted

Got a New Oil Filter Stud from Nissan today, one from a RB30, when in prefect.

For those wanting to know, car is track only, running a oil cooler which will do much better then the oil to water cooler this way I've removed plenty of the water lines and got more room.

As for you GT-T1998, you can basically do the same thing, the block on the RB25Neo is pretty much the same, the thread will be exact same, so just go to nissan and ask for a Oil Filter Stud from a RB30, I can post part number up later, cost me $19, Will be worth it.

Sorry to dig up an old thread, I think the parts guy at Nissan is starting to get the shits with me making him look up old (and imported) stuff.... Does anyone happen to know the part number for the RB30 oil stud mentioned here?

mattis96 Proficient

mattis96

Posted
Posted

Don't know if it has been mentioned yet, but when I did mine a couple months ago I just got extra heater hose and a 1/8 bsp to 1/8 bsp extension to connect oil pressure gauge back up. Helpful to know just in case.

3Katz Collaborator

3Katz

Posted
Posted (edited)

post-88334-0-07464500-1391594769_thumb.jpg

For future thread crawlers like myself. As the removed filter housing from my 25NEO contains the bypass valve I asked Ryco for for some suitable replacement filters with the same seal diameter and thread as the Z145A and also had built into the filter itself an anti drain back valve and also a bypass valve. They sent me this chart with ADV meaning anti drain back valve and RV meaning pressure relieving valve. I can't comment as to whether the filters are suitable for your application but it's hopefully some useful information to consider.

Edited by 3Katz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
    • joshuaho96
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I didn't actually try it at the time but a Launch X431 with the appropriate software licenses/upsell will have the ABS bleed function. The Consult II you can still find some old sets of equipment but they're really, really expensive:   
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Well I'll start by saying I'm not an engineer. I am going to go with the KiwiCNC ones.  They are made of 7050 alloy have good fillets and radius.  The material alone is in the order of double the strength and fatigue resistance - Those bolts, once torqued correctly place most of the load at the flat face of the mating surface - the 'stretch' you're talking about through torqueing them up would be far more than the extra stretch 'load' placed on them from a steering input or bump. (in my opinion) so I doubt they would flinch.    - but again "not an engineer".      oh and I don't think stitch welding 7050 is a good idea, likely just weaken the material (from what I read)
×
×
  • Create New...