Plazmaman Plenum On Rb25Det Neo

[dori34]

check Ebay US,

email a seller called Erics Performance Parts or something, i got my VRS gasket kit from him

[JustinP]

Hey Hanaldo

I've got one you can have if you want. Just had a look and it's in very good condition. I have a new one from the VRS kit going back into my build.

Cheers

Justin

Right, so I just wanted to double check before I make a poor decision... Upper plenum gasket.

What should I do here? Plazmaman only offer one for the R33; so I was trying to track down an OEM one, but Nissan wanted $160 and I haven't found any other manufacturers. There's some on eBay but they don't say much so not sure how good they are. A mate of mine who is also on here (Stealth-X) said I should be fine just stenciling one out of gasket paper and then applying silicon, however I'm not going to have a chance to test things before it goes on the dyno due to changing fuel rail, injectors, regulator at the same time. So if it does give out then it's going to cost me a lot of money and time.

Recommendations? Will the gasket paper and silicon do the job?

[toddlls]

What ever you use the secret is making sure both faces are thoroughly cleaned before hand.

Afterward the applying of silicon/Gasket goo & Gasket to a cleaned surface quickly regardless if its made of gasket paper or bought off the shelf.

Old man is a mechanic & he has rolls of varying thickness's in a cupboard in the garage. Never actually bought paper gaskets for years-we do it the stencil & cut it urself way & always have. Just make sure you use similar thickness paper to what you remove.

ps great thread.

ppss any of those who are worried about possible torque response loss should use a lightened flywheel when they upgrade their clutch.

[Aggroman]

Right, so I just wanted to double check before I make a poor decision... Upper plenum gasket.

What should I do here? Plazmaman only offer one for the R33; so I was trying to track down an OEM one, but Nissan wanted $160 and I haven't found any other manufacturers. There's some on eBay but they don't say much so not sure how good they are. A mate of mine who is also on here (Stealth-X) said I should be fine just stenciling one out of gasket paper and then applying silicon, however I'm not going to have a chance to test things before it goes on the dyno due to changing fuel rail, injectors, regulator at the same time. So if it does give out then it's going to cost me a lot of money and time.

Recommendations? Will the gasket paper and silicon do the job?

plazmaman use a paper gasket with silicon for r34's and lots of it i discovered this when i removed one

[Hanaldo]

Forgot to reply to the above posts, thanks a lot for your help guys ^^

Plenum has been finished and was sent out yesterday, have been told to expect delivery early next week some time One more thing I'm unsure about though, what size hose/fitting do I need for the IAC valve to the intercooler? I had been following the thread in the DIY section, but it is for the R33 version and he used a -10 hose and fitting. I just had a look at my IAC and it is obviously very different from the R33 one, and there is no -10 size hose that I can see anywhere. There are the three little hoses, one of which goes to the throttle body, is that the one I need? Or am I looking in the wrong place?? What about the other two hoses? I can see one goes down into the inlet runners, I'm assuming that is coolant? And the other one disappears off somewhere, I can't see where. What do I do with those?

[Hanaldo]

Ah wait, just had a closer look. Is the largish hose that crosses over the engine just next to the bov via the little piece of hard pipe that screws onto the valley cover the pipe I'm looking for?

[kitto]

Thread revival!

Sooo unfortunately (no pun intended) it looks like i'll have to put one of these on my NEO. Reason being - Can't use the factory plenum with RB26 Rocker covers. I have to fit RB26 rocker covers due to a small oversight.

So i'm not looking forward to forking out over $1k for one, but i do believe these are the best FFP on the market. Although i am not a fan of FFP's.

- Will i need to keep the IAC valve block? Car is a track car, Idle up is not required for P/S or Air con. But i do believe the NEO uses the AAC valve for cold start idle up because the NEO does not have an Air regulator like other RB's. I'll be using a Link ECU with map sensing. I believe this helps my cause with deleting the IAC Block. I dont want to delete it and then have a really high and roughish idle though. Is there another vehicle i can potentially get a small two wire AAC valve?

- What has everyone down with the water hoses? I plan on using a plazmaman throttle body so i dont need to run hoses to the throttle body. The NEO has two bleeder valves, one at the front of the plenum and one on the IAC block. Obviously going FFP you lose these. Before i realized that i had to go FFP i was going to run both bleeder valves to the Greddy header tank i have. i'm still going to use the Greddy header tank but i'm unsure how i should properly route all the water hoses now.

- How are the Plazmaman plenums attached to the factory runners? Obviously using bolts LOL, The factory plenum bolts to the runners with the inner three bolts coming from underneath into the plenum and the outer 6 going down into the runners. Obviously you can't do that with the Plazmaman for the outer 6 bolts though. Or am i missing something there?

- Plazmaman throttle body size, whats recommended? I did a quick bit of searching before and it appears that the good all rounder is the 66mm or the 72mm. I dont think its necessary to go up to an 80 or 90mm. Factory is 61mm.

- Fuel rail issues/FPR issues. I dont think i'll have any of these as i'm going after market with everything.

I think thats all my questions for now. I'm mainly concerned about the IAC and how to route all the water hoses.

Cheers guys.

[Hanaldo]

Can't answer your question about the IAC, but the water hoses are easy mate, you simply re-route them. Tee the ones that go to the stock throttle body into one of the ones going to the IAC valve if you keep it. If you delete the IAC, I imagine you could simply block the water lines off, they are then unnecessary.

The Plazmaman bolts down in the same way as the stock one. You can see the stud pattern here, the three outer ones are bolts whereas the 6 inner ones are studs. You need to drill out the two end holes on the lower manifold to 8.5mm, then that's it.

[kitto]

So what did you do with the cooling system bleeders?

Am i correct in thinking the IAC mounts to the underside of the Plazmaman? If this is so, obviously you can no longer use the bleeder that is on the IAC block.

[Hanaldo]

Ditched them. I've never used either of them anyway.

[GTSBoy]

For idle control, given you're not using a Nissan ECU, you could just use one off a Falcon, or any other suitable valve.

For coolant bleeders, you could keep at least one of them and mock it up out of coolant line and some fittings. If you were to keep teh lines (or new, longer versions of same) that used to go to the IAC valve, run them up to a female threaded T (say, 3/8") and attach it up near or on the firewall, then you can have a bleeder right up high. If you use a dremel to cut a slot in the thread of a 3/8" plug, and a nice copper washer to seal the plug against the T piece, then all you have to do to get a fine bleed out of it is crack it open and raise the revs. The water/air will pass up through the slot in the thread. Wehn ti stops bubbling, simply close it up against the washer and presto.

[kitto]

For idle control, given you're not using a Nissan ECU, you could just use one off a Falcon, or any other suitable valve.

For coolant bleeders, you could keep at least one of them and mock it up out of coolant line and some fittings. If you were to keep teh lines (or new, longer versions of same) that used to go to the IAC valve, run them up to a female threaded T (say, 3/8") and attach it up near or on the firewall, then you can have a bleeder right up high. If you use a dremel to cut a slot in the thread of a 3/8" plug, and a nice copper washer to seal the plug against the T piece, then all you have to do to get a fine bleed out of it is crack it open and raise the revs. The water/air will pass up through the slot in the thread. Wehn ti stops bubbling, simply close it up against the washer and presto.

Hmm not a bad idea.

What sort of idle control does the Falcon use? What model Falcon are we talking here?

Well seeing as i'm going to use a header tank, i theory i can delete the bleeders all together because the header tank becomes the bleeder correct?

[GTSBoy]

Header tank needs to be in the back corner of the engine bay to actually be the highest point in the system. If you can squeeae one in up there, then yes, you are right. Otherwise I still think a bleeder above the back of the engine is smarter.

[kitto]

Header tank needs to be in the back corner of the engine bay to actually be the highest point in the system. If you can squeeae one in up there, then yes, you are right. Otherwise I still think a bleeder above the back of the engine is smarter.

Good point. So where would you tap your bleeder in?

While we are on the subject of coolant paths; throttle body and IACV - they both have coolant through them.

As far as I've been able to work out, coolant passes through the throttle body to eliminate iceing and throttle sticking. Here in Aus it's obviously not needed.

IACV - I believe coolant passes through this which has a wax valve inside. When the coolant is colt the valve is open, when it warms up, the valve closes dropping idle. Now seeing as the NEO does not have an AIr regulator valve for raiding the idle when starting, am I correct in thinking its a very smart idea in keeping coolant flowing through the IACV.

I know it's a track car, but it would be nice to have the engine behave as best as possible.

[Hanaldo]

Can I ask why a bleeder is necessary? I have never used them on my car, even when I had one. Crank the heater on full and disconnect the top heater hose, best method I've ever used. Unless it's a completely stripped track car with no heater system?

[GTSBoy]

Bubbles will collect at the highest point. Without a proper bleeder, just because they stop coming out of the radiator, doesn't mean you have them completely out of the head/wherever the highest point is. If in the head, can be a real bad thing for local hot spots, etc.

And you surmise about the IACV water path is correct. It serves the purpose of cold fast idle. On Neo engines that have cludgy cooling systems, the water path up through there can be blocked with corrosion anyway (and lead to idle control problems).

cheers

[KURTIS34]

Good point. So where would you tap your bleeder in?

While we are on the subject of coolant paths; throttle body and IACV - they both have coolant through them.

As far as I've been able to work out, coolant passes through the throttle body to eliminate iceing and throttle sticking. Here in Aus it's obviously not needed.

IACV - I believe coolant passes through this which has a wax valve inside. When the coolant is colt the valve is open, when it warms up, the valve closes dropping idle. Now seeing as the NEO does not have an AIr regulator valve for raiding the idle when starting, am I correct in thinking its a very smart idea in keeping coolant flowing through the IACV.

I know it's a track car, but it would be nice to have the engine behave as best as possible.

I can speak from experience from last week on the track.

My IAC coolant points failed

The hard line in too it to the IAC come loose so made a little of a mess.

I'm running a link ecu aswell to fix my leak I removed coolant running thou the IAC, idle is better then before so I guess my wax valve was faulty. Cold start still works quite well good tune helps.

To bleed system with no bleeder I jacked front end up so radi was highest point seems to have bleed correctly.

[Hanaldo]

I can speak from experience from last week on the track.

My IAC coolant points failed

The hard line in too it to the IAC come loose so made a little of a mess.

I'm running a link ecu aswell to fix my leak I removed coolant running thou the IAC, idle is better then before so I guess my wax valve was faulty. Cold start still works quite well good tune helps.

To bleed system with no bleeder I jacked front end up so radi was highest point seems to have bleed correctly.

Wait, which part failed?? The hard line on the IAC itself, or did you use hard line running into the IAC?

[KURTIS34]

Wait, which part failed?? The hard line on the IAC itself, or did you use hard line running into the IAC?

The hard line on the IAC itself

[kitto]

Nasty. Is that on a Plazmaman plenum or factory plenum?

Hanaldo, have you got any more pics of your plenum setup? I had a good look through your build thread. I'm curious to see what you did underneath the plenum, how you've got your water lines routed, vac lines etc. And too see how the IAC is mounted to the Plazmaman.