Jump to content
SAU Community

"steam Pipe" Single Turbo Manifolds On Fleabay....anyone Know Anythging About This Supplier And Their Products?


Recommended Posts

I don't know what more you are expecting though, you're not going to get a nice CNC'd collector on a good quality manifold for 300 bucks.

  • Replies 384
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeah exactly lol. You get what you pay for.

And in this case, it seems like what you pay for isnt half bad considering.

Guys, Lets see what Kam replies with first eh? I think to be honest a lot of the more "Established" manifold makers take the piss with their pricing. I can remember when a "Certain" popular manifold maker used to sell his manifolds for like $600.........im not sure 6 years inflation equates to a 100% price increase???? I see no reason why a $360 manifold shouldnt have tidy collector welds........we arent talking chinese shite here after all!!

Fair point....like I said....lets see what Kam comes back with?? Im not being funny but until it comes from the "horses Mouth" in not gonna believe it

lol if you think that collector looks bad in the pic you should see it in person... when I get a chance Ill grab a pic of the flange with a straight edge across it to show the warp.

IMG_0113.jpg?t=1329384713

IMG_0114.jpg

IMG_0115.jpg

IMG_0116.jpg

Edited by battery

Giday guys,

Sorry has taken so long tly i am not really that great with forums but ill do my best :)

Every one will have something to say whether it is a $1,000 manifold or $350 Manifold but before we got in this business we knew that not every one can afford to pay $1,000 for a manifold or $1900 on a turbo and this is why we came in this business line.

Our products in our own opinion are value for buck and you are not going to find anything like this with a similar price , you might be able to source yourself a cheap stainless one which will crack with time and will make your car sounding like a coke can.

Even if you look at our Ebay feedback you will see people are happy with what they are getting.

We are constantly working on new products and the reason why we jumped on here isn't to say come buy from us but to get involved more to see what you guys want, We know you guys want to run bigger wastegates / or even have the manifold run with no WG port so you can run the WG direct from the rear of the turbo housing. So now we are going to be working on those things to provide you guys with more options,

Any ways i will stop blabing and post up some pictures of the products we do.

img3966v.jpg

img3981d.jpg

danengine1.jpg

danengine.jpg

dscf0754.jpg

dscf0840t.jpg

dscf0846d.jpg

dscf0862f.jpg

dscf0883r.jpg

dscf0896zz.jpg

dscf0942tk.jpg

dscf1344z.jpg

danmanifold.jpg

gt3540.jpg

dscf0807k.jpg

Kam, great pics. What's the score with battery's manifold though? Don't u check each manifolds mating faces (head and turbo ) are flat and true before shipping? I'm up for buying one but not for then having to machine the turbo and head flanges flat!!

Also, are you able to change the way the wastegate port is mounted? The current design looks like it would cause huge boost control issues, the exhaust has to flow backwards from its direction of travel...

Hanaldo, good point mate . Can someone post up pics of the preferred wastegate layout for Kam too see??

Hi guys,

Show us what kind if design you perfer so we can work around it,

As for the previous pictures of the person who had purchased one in the past we make quiet a few and we had changed staff at the moment with much higher quality control, Each item is inspected now before dispatched by me. Your not going to get cnc'd machine collectors for the price you are paying but it will be a high quality item, I have attached a pic of the collectors above.

I also advice to either get the manifold HPC coated or heat wrapped

I will look forward to seeing how guys wanting the Wg port done

Kam

Come on guys, let's help Kam by posting up pics showing how the wastegate tubing should be optimally placed then we can start ordering these manifolds??

KiwiRS4T, I cant get my head around your picture above.....it looks like the wastegate is taken right of the back of the exhaust housing on the turbo....so its not part of the manifold design at all? How is Kam gonna manufacture that?? I might be missunderstanding and if I am I appologise.

What we need to see is the collector organised a bit better and the wastegate taken off at a better angle.

Kam......rather than posting someone elses work up here, ill email you a few "Examples" so you can get an idea for whats needed matey.

Cheers

Andy

after i test my stock manifold..

then we can get a back to back definate result as to how much improvement it is over a stock manifold..

I got one of these things lying around...

IMG_0112.jpg

bit messy but would do the job i guess.. Flange is seriously warped though, ill get some more pics when i get a chance.

Damn, mine doesn't look that bad. Shame to hear your manifold is up the shit.

looks like they've upped their quality control or something.

Artz, I can't see how you fabricate your own exhaust housing? If you cut a hole in it and then welded a pipe into it to take a wastegate you would then need the housing re-machining again to correct any distortion from the welding?????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...