Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

I have now finished off the R34 GTT with the East Bear Masterpiece Collection GTT to GTR bodykit.

All other work is completed except for the FMIC.

I want to use the return flow type, to retain the "over the engine" style intake.

http://www.kudosmoto...-neo-p-944.html

I am going to use the intercooler linked above.

I'd like to get some feedback from the members who have installed this unit in the past.

Has it bettered your response or not?

My car is running factory intake and airbox with an HKS panel filter.

The turbo has been hi flowed and is running a modest 10 psi, making 335HP at the fly wheel.

My aim is to better the response, and cool the air better, not more power.

Has anyone found that installing one of these units, actually increases lag?

Many thanks.

Jim

Edited by TR33GT-001
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391651-blitz-return-flow-fmic/
Share on other sites

Guys,

I have now finished off the R34 GTT with the East Bear Masterpiece Collection GTT to GTR bodykit.

All other work is completed except for the FMIC.

I want to use the return flow type, to retain the "over the engine" style intake.

http://www.kudosmoto...-neo-p-944.html

I am going to use the intercooler linked above.

I'd like to get some feedback from the members who have installed this unit in the past.

Has it bettered your response or not?

My car is running factory intake and airbox with an HKS panel filter.

The turbo has been hi flowed and is running a modest 10 psi, making 335HP at the fly wheel.

My aim is to better the response, and cool the air better, not more power.

Has anyone found that installing one of these units, actually increases lag?

Many thanks.

Jim

Hey mate, cant say i noticed a difference with lag or response, it pretty much didnt change, although i'd def recommend one if you do chose to increase your power down the track, especially with a hiflow turbo.

Cooling the air better is how they make more power.

What are you comparing it with? Do you have a fmic now or the standard GTT smic?

I had a Trust smic (bit bigger than the GTT one) on my Stagea making about 220awkw and changed to a Just Jap return flow making 240awkw with a GCG highflowed GTST turbo on about one bar. I didn't notice any increase in lag but then there was a power increase as well.

I have now changed to an HDi Hybrid fmic with a Greddy copy FF plenum on an RB30 so can't notice any increase in lag or response.

If you have the GTT smic now there will be no improvement in lag but it should be easier to make power.

If you have a fmic now I doubt that you will notice any improvements.

It's presently the OEM SMIC.

I'll wait for a few more replies before deciding.

Thanks for your comments so far guys.

(I'm being overly cautious, for good reason. Money!)

Jim

Edited by TR33GT-001

That's a pretty good power figure for the stock smic. :)

I've always said they were underrated. People used to go on about heatsoak but that was only ever a problem for me on the dyno - not on the street or track.

Having said that I think the Blitz return flow is a good unit and you could wind your highflow up a few psi and you will notice a good power gain with no noticeable downside.

You could save a few bucks by getting this one instead (the one I had) http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17355&cat=0&page=1

But if money is really tight you could carry on as you are until you are ready to upgrade.

You will see a slight pressure drop it's way bigger the stock cooler your also adding piping but would be hardly noticeable but thats my 2c it is a deffinent improvement over stock the gains will out weigh the cons

I have the Blitz LM on mine. Didnt notice any decrease in throttle response or any increase in lag with the stock turbo.

Putting 300rwkw through it now with no dramas. Keeps the intake temps very low. And removes temps very quick if it heats up in traffic etc. It will drop 20+ degrees in a matter of seconds. Even just giving the throttle a stab and holding the revs a bit higher at a standstill the temps plummet.

On the track on a warm day the temps range from 25-35'C giving it full beans. On the road it, 18-25'C.

im using a big ARC return flow dont know to much about them but have heard after a car was tuned by trent after 15 runs the intake temps didnt change at all

and have seen a few results make over 300rwkw with no problems

havent looked into the other brands much so cant really comment on them and i cant say if i noticed a difference as my car came from japan with it fitted

but when my car was stock with full 3 inch stainless dump pipe and exhaust,metal intake pipe 9psi i raced my friends r33 with excatly the same mods except the intercooler he was using a just jap one

head to head i was 2, 2.5 car lengths in front

not sure if that was the coolers doin or not

hope this helps

Lol companies always give redicolous power increases that will never happen. A cooler isnt a power increasing mod like rurbo its a mod like fuel pump it removes a restriction and allows you to get more power out of the pther mods like a turbo.

At what power level though? up to around 300kw they will both be the same its only once the jjr starts to reach its limits and be a restriction is when that could happen. For instance if its just a relatively standard car and you put one on you wont expect a power increase of 80hp,

main difference ive seen with the arc coolers compared to the rest is after 15-20 dyno runs the intake temps havent moved and the arc cooler is cold on both sides i know as i have one and tested it

but dont get me wrong im sure all the other return flows will be good just saying if this guy can find one i wouldnt think twice snapping it up i was lucky my car came from japan with it fitted i wouldnt like to pay 2-3k for a return flow cooler hahah

Yeah I agree the ARC and other jap brand coolers are better than the china ones and will keep temps down better if I have to buy one again it will be a jap brand, I was more trying to point out the fact that some people think a intercooler is a instant power mod.

Yep, an intercooler is a supporting mod only, for the intended power level that is targetted. All good guys. I am going with the Blitz unit, as part of the final mods. Thank you all.:thumbsup:

Edited by TR33GT-001

I have the Blitz LM on mine. Didnt notice any decrease in throttle response or any increase in lag with the stock turbo.

Putting 300rwkw through it now with no dramas. Keeps the intake temps very low. And removes temps very quick if it heats up in traffic etc. It will drop 20+ degrees in a matter of seconds. Even just giving the throttle a stab and holding the revs a bit higher at a standstill the temps plummet.

On the track on a warm day the temps range from 25-35'C giving it full beans. On the road it, 18-25'C.

killer cooler the blitz return type.

  • 3 months later...

Good to hear the blitz turnflows are good for up to 300kw? but how would it compare to the cooling pro option from justjap?

I was set on getting a black cooling pro but im just worried that its not going to be up to the job.

I should also mention I'm planing on getting a HG turbo later in the year and i want to make the right choice now so there are no hassles(i.e. struggling to make the most out of it) later on when tuning the thing.

Thoughts on either cooler for 250 ~ 300 kw applications? - as you can see i havn't yet chosen my ideal setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...