Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 478
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm definitely in, based on what else is needed to fit them... All listings state cars with factory HID's...However, most are removed for compliance.. If it's pretty straight forward to get these working... im in for a BLACK HOUSING set.. 2003 Coupe

^^^ incorrect. Despite the fact that Aus compliance states that ALL factory HIDs without self-levelling and self-washing facilities need to be removed to meet ADRs, when I was shoppping for a V35 I couldn't find one without HIDs! I think there are WAY more with HIDs than without.

But if you buy an aftermarket HID kit which are as cheap as $200 now you could fit them into these new lights with basic meachnical/auto electrical skills. You only need to modify a couple of wires, and install a power wire to the battery on a relay. I did it on my S15 and R34 - pretty easy job!

the seller said Zenki (early) and Kouki (late) models are both ok.

Confirmed List:

Chrome housing:

1. 4evershiva

2. 81gSKy y

3.Nightcrawler

4. Thinktea

Black housing:

1.Dreadnought

2.Megahowler

3.Runner4life

Edited by shiva

the seller said Zenki (early) and Kouki (late) models are both ok.

Confirmed List:

Chrome housing:

1. 4evershiva

2. 81gSKy y

3.Nightcrawler

4. Thinktea

Black housing:

1.Dreadnought

2.Megahowler

3.Runner4life

DO you have a pic of the back of these lights? im curious if the have the factor HID hole that fits the ballast and then you run the wires through the headlights and then use the HID bulb??

See the below pic, look at the area above the white box, thats where the factory HID ballast goes..

http://www.sabersport.com/Merchant2/images/headlight/02-AZ-IG03-PCC-HID-RF-2D-02.jpg

my car has hid lights, couldnt tell you if they are factory. they where there when i bought it. im not the first owner in aust. but if they will work with any hid's ill def be in for a chrome set. thanks

hey Sheldon, can you give a plain and simple answer so everyone's question can be answered.......i know you had some trouble to get the LHD to RHD in your lights but apart from that is it a big deal to get the lights fixed into the car with RHD specifications and is it legal?

Jesse's Payment options:Direct your enquiries to [email protected]

for a larger order like this an international transfer will work out a

little cheaper.

bank charges and options are as follows.

Paypal <- will be instant and you have buyer protection, Im also

protected from exchange rate changes as I can send you the bill in

JPY. Has a 4% fee and they dont give the advertised exchange rate ,

works out the most expensive way to transfer money.

Local transfer in AUD to my NAB account <-this has no buyer

protection, Im open to exchange rate changes so can be burnt if the

AUD takes a quick dive. no straight fees but the rate they give is

~3.3yen down on the advertised exchange rate. This is how I do most

of my transfers from Aus due to ease of transfer for the customer and

cheaper rates than Paypal.

International Transfer <- slow, a little complicated for you to send

money, takes a week for the money to clear into my Japanese account.

No buyer protection. They will give the advertised exchange rate and

as the money can be sent in JPY Im safe from exchange rate changes.

They do have large flat fees though, depending on the bank you use

on your side fees range from $0 to $25 and then there is an additional

4000yen receiving fee on my side. This kind of transfer only works

well with transfers over ~$1500 worth (this is how most car exporters

move money around)

Im ok with any of those ways so which ever suits you is ok.

*Ill only need the purchase cost of the tail lights up front and will

charge my commission and shipping costs after they have reached me and

have been weighed up.

Jayce - I Have aftermarket headlights from U.S

I have attached the link below.

Took me and A mate about 5 hours - hard bit is getting front bumper off. But second time its simple with practice. Sock might be easier - have the nismo one.

Post me with any questions mate.

3470-projector-headlights.asp&docid=vCQhRAQNqisyRM&imgurl=http://www.slickcar.com/products/LHP-G35032JM-TM9241885E-02.jpg&w=750&h=750&ei=-PVXT8b3OuyhmQW4m-DADw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=610&vpy=193&dur=234&hovh=225&hovw=225&tx=95&ty=153&sig=110179230568841931979&page=1&tbnh=142&tbnw=142&start=0&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0&biw=1151&bih=786

Jesse's Payment options:Direct your enquiries to [email protected]

for a larger order like this an international transfer will work out a

little cheaper.

bank charges and options are as follows.

Paypal <- will be instant and you have buyer protection, Im also

protected from exchange rate changes as I can send you the bill in

JPY. Has a 4% fee and they dont give the advertised exchange rate ,

works out the most expensive way to transfer money.

Local transfer in AUD to my NAB account <-this has no buyer

protection, Im open to exchange rate changes so can be burnt if the

AUD takes a quick dive. no straight fees but the rate they give is

~3.3yen down on the advertised exchange rate. This is how I do most

of my transfers from Aus due to ease of transfer for the customer and

cheaper rates than Paypal.

International Transfer <- slow, a little complicated for you to send

money, takes a week for the money to clear into my Japanese account.

No buyer protection. They will give the advertised exchange rate and

as the money can be sent in JPY Im safe from exchange rate changes.

They do have large flat fees though, depending on the bank you use

on your side fees range from $0 to $25 and then there is an additional

4000yen receiving fee on my side. This kind of transfer only works

well with transfers over ~$1500 worth (this is how most car exporters

move money around)

Im ok with any of those ways so which ever suits you is ok.

*Ill only need the purchase cost of the tail lights up front and will

charge my commission and shipping costs after they have reached me and

have been weighed up.

I should allaborate a bit on my previous post - for everyones benefit.

Long story short;

- Factory HID's - Fitted straight into my Headlights from the U.S. They sit perfectly in the aftermarket metal clip and the ballast screws to the bottom - per stock set up.

- Yes - you can do it yourself - there is no wiring required - unless you want to light up the Halo's (I only have the LED sttip). In which case - Cut wire and solder it in. The front bumper needs to be removed. give yourself 5 hours or so if you havent dont this before from start to finish.

- NO they will not be legal. However - most workshops will give you a roadworthy but just notify you that if you're asked to take them out due to defect - do it.

- The lights will not point correctly immediateley after install.... you will need to spend time toggling the left and right / up and down screws in the back of the lights. You need to understand where the stock set up points - so you can adjust accordingly. Test this about 15M from a wall and If possible mark on the wall where the stock set up sits. On the V series you will notice the left light points slightly higher and to the side of the road. The right hand light (the one that will shine in traffic's eyes) needs to be put as low and straight as practically possible. This can alleviate some of the problems with no self leveling.

If anyone needs tips, Im happy to help out. Done the job on two cars now....and I work in Bank - so any one can do it!

Cheers

Thanks for the info dude but we are planning on getting these from japan, which should be RHD compliant, so we dont have to fiddle with the light settings.......

I should allaborate a bit on my previous post - for everyones benefit.

Long story short;

- Factory HID's - Fitted straight into my Headlights from the U.S. They sit perfectly in the aftermarket metal clip and the ballast screws to the bottom - per stock set up.

- Yes - you can do it yourself - there is no wiring required - unless you want to light up the Halo's (I only have the LED sttip). In which case - Cut wire and solder it in. The front bumper needs to be removed. give yourself 5 hours or so if you havent dont this before from start to finish.

- NO they will not be legal. However - most workshops will give you a roadworthy but just notify you that if you're asked to take them out due to defect - do it.

- The lights will not point correctly immediateley after install.... you will need to spend time toggling the left and right / up and down screws in the back of the lights. You need to understand where the stock set up points - so you can adjust accordingly. Test this about 15M from a wall and If possible mark on the wall where the stock set up sits. On the V series you will notice the left light points slightly higher and to the side of the road. The right hand light (the one that will shine in traffic's eyes) needs to be put as low and straight as practically possible. This can alleviate some of the problems with no self leveling.

If anyone needs tips, Im happy to help out. Done the job on two cars now....and I work in Bank - so any one can do it!

Cheers

*** Light comes on in Brain***

My bad - yes i see that now! Best of luck with it.

I can recommend importmonster.com.au in that case. Lots of OEM bits.

Cheers

Thanks for the info dude but we are planning on getting these from japan, which should be RHD compliant, so we dont have to fiddle with the light settings.......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...