Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Besides the knock, you need to space the Cas away from the cam, or it will break the keyway, and stuff the cas

generally once its cut the back of the cas it will flutter the timing up top... really commo issue.

Good spot Adriano

when you spun the engine over to build oil pressure did you have spark plugs fitted to the engine?

Recon it'd matter much? provided it wasnt assembled dry, shouldnt hurt as far as i know. plugs out is probably safer though dont think it'd matter

I really think its a lifter not bled or stuffed, listen to the knock speed, to me it sounds too slow to be crank speed.

SOLUTION to find out, use timing light, does the knock have the exact speed as the flash of the light? if so, its cam/lifter/valve problem. If its twice as fast as the flash you have a bottom end problem

Recon it'd matter much? provided it wasnt assembled dry, shouldnt hurt as far as i know. plugs out is probably safer though dont think it'd matter

I really think its a lifter not bled or stuffed, listen to the knock speed, to me it sounds too slow to be crank speed.

SOLUTION to find out, use timing light, does the knock have the exact speed as the flash of the light? if so, its cam/lifter/valve problem. If its twice as fast as the flash you have a bottom end problem

I was going to suggest he do something like this but with the injector on 5 and 6. Listen to the injector clicking open then see how that correlates with the head. If it is a bearing in the bottom end it will thud of every cycle, if its the lifter it will only thud on the exhaust or intake stroke or how ever the f**k it works.

I had that exact same noise when i rebuilded my engine. I told my mechanic to check the timing again if its not that to pull the engine apart again, not sure what he did though but a week later the engine was running fine and no problems 2 years later now. I'll give him a call and ask what he did. I didnt have to pay a lot extra so i dont think he pulled the engine apart again.

is it running oil restrictors in the block? ive seen the same thing when the builder run restrictors in both galleries.

I bought some Tomei restrictors to install but after doing some reading on hydrolic lifters there was no need for them so I sold them...So no restrictors installed..

Recon it'd matter much? provided it wasnt assembled dry, shouldnt hurt as far as i know. plugs out is probably safer though dont think it'd matter

I really think its a lifter not bled or stuffed, listen to the knock speed, to me it sounds too slow to be crank speed.

SOLUTION to find out, use timing light, does the knock have the exact speed as the flash of the light? if so, its cam/lifter/valve problem. If its twice as fast as the flash you have a bottom end problem

off subject a little with the CAS issue....I would think that if it had something to do with the CAS that the noise would be heard from the front but there is a spacer between the CAS and the aluminum bracket...

abr33: I will try this trick when I get home this afternoon...I assre you that the lifters where bleed. seperated them all, submerged under a clean bath of 10w-30, paper clip inserted in the center of the ball and pumped up and down until all the air was released. What does a collapsed lifter do b/c after bleeding they all where solid...

a while ago i hear a very similar sound on friends SR that was rebuilt, turned out to be the gudgen pin i think thats how its spelt? found out after the piston went through the head

That gudgen pin was in place. Wiseco has a "C" clip on both sides that keeps it secure. When I disassembled the bottom end after the 1st rebuild all the pins where secure and there where no marking on the cylinder wall....A piston through the block would not be good.....lol

I forgot to run spacer on my cas to once killed it in 5 min lol, it started grinding against the cam gear.

Yeah and the motor has been running for more than 5 minutes so no cas issues....I would hate for that to go b/c its would be rather hard and expensive to replace that mate...lol

I had that exact same noise when i rebuilded my engine. I told my mechanic to check the timing again if its not that to pull the engine apart again, not sure what he did though but a week later the engine was running fine and no problems 2 years later now. I'll give him a call and ask what he did. I didnt have to pay a lot extra so i dont think he pulled the engine apart again.

Hey mate I would really appreciate it f you did that....

Its about a 4mm spacer for the cas. lol made that mistake when I was 18!

Use a stethascope or long screwdriver to try and pinpoint where the noise is coming from...

Definetly intake side under the valve cover cylinders 5 and 6, possibly exhaust side as well on cylinder 6

off subject a little with the CAS issue....I would think that if it had something to do with the CAS that the noise would be heard from the front but there is a spacer between the CAS and the aluminum bracket...

abr33: I will try this trick when I get home this afternoon...I assre you that the lifters where bleed. seperated them all, submerged under a clean bath of 10w-30, paper clip inserted in the center of the ball and pumped up and down until all the air was released. What does a collapsed lifter do b/c after bleeding they all where solid...

You dont really even need to bleed them. I didnt know I had to, started it, sounded like a milo tin full of bolts, ran it for 5 mins, next day quiet as a mouse.. They self bleed. You may have a little bit of shit or cotton or aloy or god knows what clogging the little hole for a lifter. Let us know :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...